efficient setup for e-maxx
 

I will be running 14 nimth cells and maybe 4s lipo in the future. I want a setup i'm not gonna have overheating issues and a decent runtime. I'm hoping I can do this with a 9xl or 8 xl, mm, and a ubec cause its cheaper. Most of the running will be either speed runs or bashing.

Whether you are going to have overheating issues or not, is going to depend on what you consider to be overheating issues. It's also going to depend on the climate where you are, the weight of your vehicle, and your driving style. The motor that you get will have an impact too.

For the coolest running, I'd go with the 9XL. In a racing environment, I had to go to great lengths to be able to run for 30 minutes, and even then the motor is at or over 200*F. In any case, the motor overheats before the battery needs charging.

If I try to, I can overheat my 9XL in my sub 10lb truggy in about 6 minutes. The Feigaos are just to inefficient to be able to avoid the heat.

I'm sure that others will have a different opinion, as I've heard of others running their Feigaos and only getting temps of around 160*F, although I don't understand how.

If you really want to be able to run without heat issues, you're going to have to go with either a Lehner or Neu motor and compatible controller.

So what are some common combos for a e-maxx? Looking to do about 40mph and have a runtime of about 30 minutes and not overheat. I will have to go lipo to achieve this but lipo will be in the future.

What I said above applies in general. After all, an emaxx is just another truck.

If you have to be able to do 40, I suppose that the 8XL will be the way to go. Having an emaxx doing 40 AND getting 30 minutes of runtime AND not overheat.

For all of your demands, I'd say go with a Neu 1515/1Y with a Quark Monster Pro controller (with proper cooling provisions) and an 8Ah battery pack. I believe that any setup using a Feigao motor that meets your criteria is going to overheat, unless you spend all of your time putting around.

Just FYI, most race setups are geared for mid 30s.

40 mph is quite fast for an MT. Doable, with ease, but fast.

Well how fast is a stock e-maxx on 14 cells?

it would do about 30-33 mph. it could be geared a bit higher. but that's not helping the heat.

I thought most ppl on this forum geared for 40mph for bashing? and 35 for racing?

I agree, you should go with the Quark 125B or Compro's esc with a 1515/1Y/F, that should satisfy your speed cravings, and will run cool all day long.

The other option of a Lehner setup (MM will work with Lehners), and cheaper, just as good as Neu/Quark combo, at least from what i've heard. But the Lehners are not in stock at the moment, unknown when they will be. :032:

I've been having good luck with my MM/Neu combo. I have a very slight chatter/cog at take-off, but only from a dead stop. This is in a 1/8 buggy conversion.

I have my 1/8 buggy geared for about 40mph, and just a little faster, and it will lose control. You really don't want to be hit by one of these going so fast because it'll will hurt like a bit**. lol:005:

It would be like an axe hitting your legs, you would be going to the hospital, or carried there.:005:

Quark and Neu 1515 1Y is good combo I do agree with it .If you will get the Quark ,get the heatsink for it here
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=RCM008&cat=21

I'm using the quark 125, RC-Monster esc plate, a NEU 15152.5d and 2s and 3s maxamps 5000 and 800 packs and nothing gets hot at all. I have my esc mounted with artic silver heat transfer paste and zip ties

In bashing, you can achieve great runtimes with cool temperatures, however, a speed run is always going to stretch the motor. As long as you keep the max fairly light, I don't think you'll run into overheating issues.

The problem is that the 5 sec finger test just won't do, I reccomend a $20 digital temperature gun. That way, you can be exact in measurement and save your thumb. I was surprised how cool my fingers scorching hot turned out to be.

Yeah, the touch test doesn't tell you much at all. Some people's skin is thicker than others'. If you really want to get accurate, get a thermometer that has an attached probe on it. The touchless ir jobs are accurate, if you set them right, but that's tough to do. Things like bare aluminum, or the color of anodizing will affect the readings.

You can run a Neu motor with a MM esc, but there is the cogging issue. Those with lighter vehicles usually have better luck. The problem gets worse as the weight of the vehicle increases.