why is my quark getting so hot?
 

I have som trobbel with my quark 125B.
In my revo I`m running with 4s8000mha and i feiago 8xl and 51/16-20.
When i have driven the car for 10 min or less the quark is realy hot in the end where the cabels to the battery are.
I don matter if i run with 51/16 or 51/20 is getting hot anyway.
Are the current draw to hige wite the 8xl on 4s?
I have tried with 2s and the 8xl, and that is not geting hot. But i got no top speed:019:
When i tried with a 8l and 2s with 51/20 the motor whas getting hot but not the quark, to heavy gearing?
Should i get a motor with lower kv? A wander 9xl is a 1662 kv, would that run cooler?

The Quarks run hot. All you can do is provide additional cooling for it. Most here attach some sort of heatsink to the case of the Quark and add fans.

When running a Revo, I'd say that 4S is the minimum battery configuration that you should go with.

Going with a lower kv motor will help with the current draw, but you will sacrifice performance.

i have a heatsink attached to it, but this dosent provide any cooling to the topp of it. The rest of it is cool, its only onthe top where the cabels to the battery are that its hot.

Yes, the Quark dissipates a lot of heat compared to other controllers, to add to that it's thermal design sucks, mostly from the internal thermal pads, which are mediocre, at best.

So you say the battery cable side? I don't know why that side would be overly hot, usually the motor taps on the pcb are very hot on the Quark.

The best way to cool the Quark is to do the internal mod to it like many here have done. The internal pad is replaced with a thicker one, and is thermal epoxied on. Then use a decent heatsink on it.

BrianG has said he thinks the engineers have sacrificed efficiency with the controller for better firmware (in it's own way i guess), like being cog free, and very smooth in driving.

There really is no 'ultimate truck controller' out there, we are going to have to wait for the MMM, and Tekin to see what they have with their up coming controllers.

So if i should buy another esc, who runns cooler. Who should i buy?

:dft012:

Although, after the big "Quark thread" on here, a couple of us got some extra capacitors to put on our esc's, AAngel made a small cap bank for his MM, he says it stays very cool, and hardly cogs after he did it. Extra caps are going to help the Quark somewhat too, but it doesn't seem to make as big a difference as with the MM.

LOL, quoting yourself now? ;)

You know, I have a bunch of those caps and have yet to add them on my ESCs. My workbench is simply too messy with repairing the Revo (had an issue with the motor mount), the CRT.5 (broken shock cap), and the Hellfire conversion that I simply don't have room to work on anything else! Poo. I guess I'll have to get to work! :)

Yeah, you have to try them out Brian! For all of us! :)

The problem is that all my trucks are running fine temp-wise to notice a difference. I would have to run it on a certain day at a certain temp, install the caps, and then run it again with the same conditions to see if there is a difference.

The only heat trouble I have is the CRT.5 running the 4600 motor. I guess I could throw a couple on there and see if that helps, but I plan on getting a 1930 and Mike agrees with that choice.

i have a quick question for you guys. i have my maxx shelved (uncompleted) and when i get it running i want to fire it up on the first run so to say. I know this is hard but what do i have to do to my quark to allow it to run (dont care if it runs hot) without thermaling. i cant do the mod because i m not good with electonics and sodering. i will be using my maxx(look at avatar), a pretty heavy beast, ex ubec, 3330z servo, 14cells ib 4200s, 2200kv neu, and 40series tires. what heatsinks/fans should i use. thanks

If i change my 8xl with a 9 or 10xl will this do me any god?
The 8xl is 2084 kv, it the current draw samler on a 9xl on 4s? or is this the same?

Gorilla, if you can't solder, I don't know what to tell you. You could try just adding the Monster heatsink and a couple of 40mm fans. Maybe your internal pads are working. I know that mine weren't stuck and I had to do the mod.

As for another controller, the Compro will run the Neu motors, and they do run cooler than the Quarks. The Compro, however, is not as smooth as the Quark. With my setup being a Spektrum radio and the Compro, starting from a stop is kind of abrupt.

I have done the mods to a couple of Quarks. I never did any soldering when I did them. It is not absolutely necessary. Once you remove the top and the battery side end you can run a small flat blade screwdriver under the caps to the aluminum spacer. Pry between the case and the aluminum spacer. Take it slow and becarefull not to pry on the electronic boards or caps, only the spacer. The whole insides will lift off at an angle till you can slide out the back end. There are some threads around that can help you with the rest.

You might want to try it before you mod it you may not need to mod it.

I agree; no need to do the mod if you don't have to. I'm kinda rough on my trucks (unintentional crashing mostly) so the ESC gets jarred a lot, so that's why I mod mine pretty much right away. Just keep in mind that if you start getting thermals all of a sudden, it might be because the thermal tape has let go and the ESC internals have seperated from the heatsink, at which point you have two choices: 1) send it back to Quark for repair, or 2) do the mod and not worry about it anymore.

Do you have a link to this mod that you are writing about?