Electric Savage
 

Guys,
I am gonna go with the Savage option for now, to gain some more knowledge and experience before going too big and wasting alot of money on the larger Genesis.
Serum, on your electric Savage did you use a conversion kit for mounting the motor?? I found this one

http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/ind...66&pi_id=84589

also did you stick with the 2 speed transmission?? and added the heavy duty second gear?? I didn't think I heard your transmission shifting do you run 2nd only?? What other drive train mods did you have to make?? diffs? brakes? dogbones? what motor/esc combination do you recomend?? would voltages and lipo configs would you recomend?? I have looked around for some stronger differentials (like a 6 or 8 spider set up) for the Savage and haven't found any. Also should I look for aluminum diff housings??? Also no sign of a tranny upgrade to a sigle speed or anything thing like the Maxx's.
I am not sure if alot of the hop ups that are on the market for the nitro savage are applicable for the electric one. How far do you need to take the strengthening process??? is diffs, gears, cv's, tranny gears, enough?? or will I also want diff housings, bulkheads, chassis bracing, wheel hubs,and wheel side diff cups??

If you could point me to some links for places or parts that you have had good luck with, that would be great.

Thanks

Okay!

The kit you pointed to includes a special shaft, that locks in 1st speed. I used it too, and modified it to get it working locked in 2nd. After that i used the stock transmission (bulletproof, only the 2nd speed pawl is a weak link (i modified it though) you are better of getting the heavy duty 2nd speed. Don't change gears for aluminum or what so ever. The stock gears are bullet proof. In the movie i was running the 2 speed transmission. you can hear it shift if you listen very good.

The things you need to make your drivetrain reliable are HB lighting cups (they are better than aluminum, because aluminum cups chip rather fast, and the HB is only 5 bucks and bulletproof..

If you get this your diffs will be bulletproof for sure. No need to get a 8 spider, i am willing to give those things the stress test against the 8spiders and i know these 6 spiders will win.

You need to get aluminum diffhousings (not the cups) only GPM makes them.. They are 25 dollars/set and they will give your ringgear/pinion the stiffness they need. (other wise they won't last too long, because they can jump over eachother in an allmighty powerstart or superstop.. You might also consider getting a set of the heavy duty diff shafts/cups

I am using the old type of HB cvd's, and they are very strong. I modified them with a 2nd set screw and dremeled a flatspot on the pin that goes thru. MIP's and UE's are very good too

What do you want to run? how fast do you want it to be?

I do recomend getting a set of the UE shocks with Nova or FLM shocktowers (or use a silicone hose inside the stock shocks)

Have you got a savage allready or do you need to buy one? best option is to buy a K4.6 SS kit, it includes a rather beefy drivetrain, and a nice servo safer as well, you only need to modify the diffs, though those stock 6 spider diffs can take a serious abuse.

I know people in Germany who run their savage with a 2240 on 24 cells and drive it at 55mph+..

A 2240 on 18/20 cells is insane allready. You can get lipoly, but if you never tasted the power of brushless, you can make a nice start with Nimh's too

Is this the front and rear diffs I should get??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

I can't find any HB lightning diffs listed anywhere.

Also
Serum is that link you posted above correct?? you say differential but that isn't the link.

für Savage umgebautes Ofna 6-SpiderDiff-Tellerad


Art.-Nr.: 0036
Preis: 29,00 EUR


Anzahl:




für Savage umgebautes Ofna 6-SpiderDiff-Tellerad

(Engineering, Production and testing by Nitroking, mt_geri and CaptainBob)




I can't read all of the details but I think this is what you meant to post??

No, Mike can get you the HB lightning cups and that link i gave you is correct.

You need the HPI gears, these are what you need; HPI 4 Bevel Gear Diff Conversion. (that is if your diffs don't have got the 6 spider mod)

i asked you more question you haven't answered yet..

I that ought I hit submit when I posted the answers to your questions first. Here they are
mid 40's would be a nice speed I think for now.
I already have a savage 25
Here is a list of the things I have ordered the other night
I ordered the GPM diff housings=these=
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=22676
I also ordered the titanium tranny components
1 HPI86345 HPI Savage Titanium Drive Shaft 6x67
1 HPI86343 HPI Savage Titanium Gear Shaft 6x12x78mm
1 HPI86344 HPI Savage Titanium Idler Shaft 6x8x45
2 HPI86278 Savage Heavy Duty Diff Shaft
Also from www.extremercmotorsports I picked up
http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/...AVLITE32TDRIVE
and
http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/...AVLITE29TIDLER
and
http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/...-HPIHDCUPTRANS
and
http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/...IHDDIFFOUTCUPS
and
http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/...HDDIFFINSHAFTS
and from hobbieguyrc
http://www.hobbieguyrc.com/catalog/h...ar_2945416.htm
also from neweramodels
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...i?part_id=1820
and wheelie bar
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...i?part_id=2199

The only things chassis components I haven't ordered or figured out are the CVD's, dogbones, Differentials, bevel gears and any bearings I might need that would not be included.
Drive train wise I need to figure out motor, ESC, and motor mounting, and what cells (voltage) NIMH or LIPO and a custom battery box or battery protection.

Did I miss anything??

Also Serum,
Those tires you have on your savage in that video are they Pro line or what??
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html
Here is the wheel I am thinkin to reduce balooning
www.pro-lineracing.com
part number
2678-02/04
and for skins either
proline bowties part number 1113-00
or the HPI dirt BONZ...
it looks like the prolines have a little less side wall which should make them baloon less.

I hope you will have got some luck with those titanium shafts! Though the bad stories about them come mainly from the HB types..

And with the leightweight idlers.. these gears will be shredded in the high stress, just like the aluminum drivegear. i did told you, that the stock gears are bulletproof.. look at savage-central and go thru the moldy marvin twin project.

Those bulkheads are the real thing!!!!

you are mentioning what you need to complete the truck.

the proline 23 mm 40 serie wheels are the ones you looking for. (cheyenne's or dishtypes)

You can go with a 7XL on 16-18 cells on a 9920 controller. Or get a 20120/36120 controller with a LMT 1950 motor.

By the way. I am not planning on gutting the insides of the tranny. I will leave it stock, and run it that way. but I have some additional parts and pieces to use in the case I need them. I also got the

Part # Pcs. Description Price
87227 3 Heavy-Duty Transmission Gear 39T Savage 2 Speed $18.00
So I should have everything covered in the trannsmission.
you said the leightweight idler will be shredded. How it is steel, it should be significantly stronger than other pieces. As for the aluminum drive gear I couldn't find a steel, titanium or any other hevier duty drive gear. So I got that one as a back-up.

Serum,
Is there any other places that have those diff mods available?? I am not too swift at german. Any suggestions on dogbones or CVD's??

Mike,
can you post a link to those HN diff cups so I can order some from you? Also any recomendations on dogbones and CVDs?

Thanks

Use the diffs with the HB cups and don't use the german mod to start with. They will last. no worries.

The stock drivegear is very, very hard steel. Stick with that one!

Mike can get you the MIP cvd's, but you can also drive your own bones till they snap or get twisted.

The .25 shafts (black ones) are rather tough!! i heard stories about people who where trashing the heavy duty dogbones like toothpicks, and they kept their black cheaper HPI dogbones in one piece...

sorry accidental reposting. when I hit refresh

Anyone know how to order off of a website that you don't know the language of?? or what they are saying or asking for?? lol damn my ignorance... I should have paid more attention in school..

Or, you could tell me what you need and I could get it for you. i have the 4 spider diff gears and several other savage parts in stock, and can get most anything you need. E-mail me the list and I will make it happen if you wish.

that would be outstanding I will have it to you momentarily.

how bout save up money and get an E-zilla from Hot Bodies
Hot Bodies
its dual 550 can motor and its about 400$$
its like an E-maxx but they jus copied it to make an E-savage

oh btw it costs 400$$ cuz it comes RTR with DC dual charger and couple of 6cell batts

but.. it would be a waste of money
E-maxx is better