New here and needed some help.
 

First off I'd like to say hi to all the members here. I am having trouble with some BL decisions.

1. I am having trouble deciding on wither I should go through with converting a Revo to BL with the G-maxx tranny or just get the G2 carbon chassis and G-maxx tranny thne build up.

2. I have been through nearly all the post in this BBS and heard of several motor and controller combos but can't pick which to go with. 9L, 10L, 7XL, XL3100, XL2800, or XL2400 with 9920 controller. I wanna race with this setup mostly. I will run mostly 40s with bowties or Response tires. I wanna get at least 10-15 min. of runtime on 12-14 gp3300 cells.

I figured that the XL/9920 setups would run me $450 minimum and the 9L, 10L, or 7XL /9920 setups would run between $280-$350 minimum. the cash is no problem involving the BL systems seeing that I don't plan to do this all at once. The big concern for me is which chassis to put it al on.


Thanks for any help. :L:

i run the xl3100 with the 9920. i would recommend the xl2800 for 12-14 cells. from what i here the 3100 will run a little hot on 14 cells. i wouldnt know since i only run 12. im my opinion 12 is plenty if not to much with the xl3100 the 2800 is plenty. the lehners are worth the extra money since they are more efficient and better made as well as more powerful.

Thanks.

How many cells are you using?

If it is 14 cells I would reccomend the XL2800 (for speed/power) or for longer runtimes you might want to consider the XL2400.

You could also conider the 9L with 14 cells, as you said you have the money for Lehners and you being a racer need all the performance possible. However, the 10L would be my choice on 16 cells.

The 7XL is for 16, 18 cells but I doubt runtime would be as good as other motors mentioned.

I am getting really excited about going BL but I still can't decide on which chassis to use Revo or G2 Carbon.

I remember the first BL Maxx I saw. It was done by a guy on the old RCMT boards with the stock chassis.

For runtime(and racing) the xl2400 on 14 cells would ofer excellent performance and runtime(the best runtime of the motors mentioned). The decision on e-revo vs g-maxx chassis is a tough one. The g-maxx chassis is an excellent platform for racing (I have a few that I race quite successfully), but upgrading can get quite costly. If you don't drive it like it's stolen, you can get away with mostly stock parts and keep things light and relatively inexpensive, or, you could drop a couple $k and go all out (like I have admittedly done!). The revo is also an excellent platform, and can be made into a brushless performer with out a great deal of difficulty. I am working on offering some conversions for the revo in the near future, as I really enjoy driving my Revo (although my brushless g-maxx is by far my favorite r/c vehicle). I can only imagine that a brushless revo would soon be among my favorites as well.

Well, I'll wait for your conversions to come out then go from there.

Thanks for the brushless help.

personally i think the g-maxx would be a better racer because of the lower cg and the extend chassis kit as well as the motor mount, but if i went revo i would get the cf revo chassis.

I have got a g-maxx chassis, and the way you can built up your truck with it is superclean, and as squee says; The cg is ultimate low.

If you want to get it done fast, get the gmaxx chassis with e-maxx parts. (like the g-maxx singlespeed conversion)

the revos suspension set up right is second to none.

That CF Revo chassis was looking tempting. I was going back over things and decided to go with the Maxx after all.

E-maxx $330
Integy Suspension and Bulkheads $290+/-
Gmaxx Tranny $70+/-
Slipper from Strobe or Robinson Racing
Steel tranny gears
MIP CVDs for front and rear $106+/-
UE center Ti CVDs $60+/-
After that I will the G2 Maxx CF chassis if there isn't a G3 chassis by then.

I have no idea what to do with the diffs but I can't see myself spending $300+/- on 7.5 diffs. A little help finding an alternative please.

Thanks for all the help so far. I do remember some guy on the old RCMT forums used the stock chassis with his BL setup but he dropped the batts somehow I just can't remember how he did it.

HiAmplidude, possibly the first wicked brushless dude in the maxx territory created a very low cost brushless maxx back in his day with only aluminum braces, cvd's, and an aevox setup.

The FLM or Maximizer diff cups inside aluminum cases work quite well when built properly. You could also choose the FLM combo bulks(and you wouldn't need the diff cups). I have all the mentioned items(appears to be a nice lway to start). You probably wouldn't need to bother with buying the e-maxx, though. Opt for the g-maxx chassis from the start. Most of the parts listed will replace almost the whole truck! I could assemble a parts list for you with or without the emaxx to start with (build as you go).

I know mike sells the integy suspension and tons of integy stuff. But integy is made out of the wierdest metal I have ever seen. It bends and breaks with ease and its a huge mistake IMO. Get a used racer x and some GA bulks for about $350 shipped if not less. You can even get a used widetrac suspensions for around $125 shipped or less I have the wide trac for sale if you want it pm me. You can get used UE cvds for around 80-90 shipped too. I would go UE from the start. The ride might be a boat anchor at first with all the aluminum but you will just launch those Light race maxxs out of the way. Get the strobe slipper over the RR. Why don't you just build the whole emaxx from the ground up. It would probably be cheaper and you will get to know every part of you truck.

Oh yea and UE diffs 6 spyders can be found for about 135-200 used. Just got hit it right.

you can make bulletproof diffs with aluminum case, aluminum diff cup in the front with robinson racing ring and pinion, and in the rear i would get a spool with robinson racing ring and pinion. also i agree it would be better to just build it from the ground up or just selling what you replace. like a new evx is like 75 dollars, ect. also i wouldnt go with the integy or the racer x i would go with just a true trac racing setup for the rear to illiminate the rear turnbuckles.