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-   -   Where do I begin. Please (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8092)

MBX5's 10.11.2007 08:20 AM

Where do I begin. Please
 
I did a couple searches but not really sure how to go about it. I have a Mugen MBX5 buggy that I'd like to convert into brushless/lipo. I currently run Nitro and theres days I'd like to get away from the mess of it all n just drop and go. I'll maintain my 5T in Nitro but I'm highly considering a brushless/lipo seup.
Can someone point me in the right direction to get started?
Please.

mkrusedc 10.11.2007 09:14 AM

There is a buggy forum. I searched in there and came up with 4 threads. Here is a good place to start:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...highlight=MBX5

Arct1k 10.11.2007 10:46 AM

I would hang on a week - Mike is in production on a RCM motor mount which will make life easier.

Then it is your choice of motor / esc - the cheaper/starter option would be a 9XL Feigao with a Mamba max etc total cost 200 with RCM heatsink (essential) - Top end setup would be a Neu and MGM upwards of 550.

Battery mounts are a custom afair - RCM doesn't make any yet - fine design has one or I actually found a cheap stampede chassis with a bit of demelling works well.

Battery wise depending on what you have a 5000 4s 25c lipo would be a good start...

PS I have an MBX5T all stripped done and just waiting for the RCM motor mount to start assembly...

AAngel 10.11.2007 10:55 AM

Considering that you have a rather nice truck and buggy, I'd have a hard time going cheap on the esc and motor.

What are you looking for in terms of performance? Are you going to be running on a track or just bashing?

A good place to get started would be with a Compro 16018 controller, a Neu `1512 2.5d (2000kv) motor, and a 5Ah 4S battery pack. Although I prefer to run the 8Ah battery packs, I believe that I do so at the expense of a bit of handling to gain the run time.

AAngel 10.11.2007 10:57 AM

Oh, the above recommendations are for a buggy. For a truggy, I'd go with a 1515 can motor. A 2.5d (1700kv) or 1Y (2200kv). For a truck with no slipper, I think I'd recommend the 2.5d. I run the 2.5d in my trucks and it runs very nicely on the track on 4S. If I want to get nuts, I can go to 5S or 6S and everything still runs relatively cool. I also run the 22418 in my trucks.

bdebde 10.11.2007 03:23 PM

As far as battery trays go; email Mike here, he usually has some Kyosho battery holders that have worked out quite well for me. You could also fab up a custom battery holder as many others have.


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