I believe i pulled off a first, I broke an RC-Monster diff pinion
 

I broke the pinion of a RC-Monster diff conversion, I had run at the track for a bit and had some trouble with my MGM, I swapped the MGM for my quark 125 and run in the yard for a bitafter a few small jumps and a few speed runs to make sure the esc was ok, i lost the rear wheels power (thought i had a setscrew loose again). I am going to see if mike can get me one without a conversion. I will post pics later tonight or tomorrow, i just thought you guys might want to know. I think i figured it out though, the pinion is drilled for weight and when mike machined it down it went too thin, A sharp jar might break it. I got to say, the Neu 1515/2.5d (1700kv) is impressive on power

This is exactly what i suspect with my RCM hybrid diff. When i've build it, and realise how thin is the material left on the pinion, i was disapointed:gasp:
Like you say, the pinion is drilled in the center to reduce weight i suppose, and where Mike have machined it to accept the revo center drive shaft, i'am ot certain if he left 1mm of metal:surprised:

I've contact Mike and ask the question, but he said to me that he never had any broke pinion report.

I'am not 100% certain if this $250.00 setup will old very long.:eyes:

What i want to do is to replace the 6x12mm bearing by a 8x12mm and use a stock, non-modified pinion from HB, and run the HB diff outdrive with a set of center dog bone. But i'am not sure if the 8x12mm bearing will hold very long:neutral: The ball in a 8x12mm is very small compare to the 6x12mm bearing.

I think that Mike will have to work on a V2 of his hybrid diffs and help all the guys how had invest the $250.00 on the V1....Because i've a Neu 1515 1Y and i'am not sure if this pinion willl last very long:oh:

I'm not saying they will all break, I just said mine did. I might be a bit rough on mine, I'd like to see Mike make some custom hardened without the drilled hole

+1. tHE HOLE IN THE CENTER IS THE WEAK SPOT ON THIS PINION

Did ou use the 2 speed trany or you lock it in second gear?

Emaxx tranny with strobe tightened all the way and a gorillamaxx single speed conversion and steel idler. What i meant about the power of the Neu 1515/2.5, I'm runing 20/51 gearing and it runs about 37mph

I am gonna run 6s flightpowers on mine, I am sure they will do better than the stockers.

V2 diff cases will be listed in a couple days, actually. The cases are modified to use a non-modified diff pinion with the V2(uses 8x14 bearings for the diff pinion). Just need to get some pictures and post them to the site.

I am shocked to hear about the failure, though - 1st pinion failure I have seen, but I figured out the V2 several months ago simply to avoid the hassle of modifying the pinions(sucks to do). The Hot Bodies pinions are drilled for lightness and I was suspicious at first regarding strength, but this is the absolute 1st failure to my knowledge(in other words, they are pretty darn strong - I have a prototype in my Revo still going strong for a year now!).

And what about the guys who've bought the V1?? Did you have a special price to replace the case and pinion or i will have to pay $80.00 to have two V2 cases + pinion??

The v1 still works fine - just a PITA to modify the pinions, which is why the V2 is replacing it. If you haven't used your V1, you can swap it out no problem, but lets not assume that it will fail - with one failure in 80+ diffs out there, the failure rate is pretty low.

I've not put my V1 in the revo yet, i want to give a test to my stock revo diff before to put your diff in it. My V1 is sit on my workbench for now, but i'am not certain if i'll send it back to you to exchange for the V2 case and pinion or pay for another set of V2 case and pinion and keep it as a spare in my tool box.
Like that i'll can run the V1, if he broke, i'll have the V2 in hand to replace quickly, and if the V1 hold well, the V2 will stay in my toll box, maybe for a futur project:yes:

So keep us inform when the V2 will be available, and i'll e-mail you to order a set as soon as it will be available, and please Mike, if you can make somes buggy ratio at first, this is this one i'll need.

Than you Mike to take care of us, all guys here appreciated your work:yes:

David

The buggy and truggy diffs are compatible(same mount configuration inside the cases), so it is "one case fits all" kind of. The truggy ring and pinion fit inside the same case as the buggy ring and pinion - the ring and pinion is the only difference.

One nice benefit of the V2 cases - most 1/8 diffs from Hot Bodies, Kyosho, Ofna should fit, so anyone with diffs already will only need the case. :)
I have the V2 done - just need to get pictures and package/label them. :)

If i had wait a week or two before to order my V1, i would have to order only the V2 case and pinion, because i already have 4 kyosho diff sit here. And i would save lot of $$$:oh:

I'am always too "quick" when it,s time to order somethings, and i pay for it.....

Hey Mike, if the buggy and truggy is the same case, how the diff ring gear would mesh with buggy or truggy pinion??

Hey Mike, will 8x12 bearings fit and work? or, will they fail? I need a pinion for mine, do you have any that you can seperate from a kit? The machined down ones if the 8x12's won't work

Hey crazyjr, the 8x12 bearing fit in you V1 case without any problems, the only downside of putting a 8x12mm bearing, is the diameter of the ball in this bearing. I think that the ball inside a 8x12 bearing don't hold the brutal force of the brushless motor.
With the V2 case that Mike is work, this will be the exact case that the V1 exept were the bearing goes thru, it will machine it to 14mm instead of 12mm, to be able to run a 8x14 bearing.
Just wait and see if the extra material that he will remove from the case will not hurt the solidity of the case around the new bearing, because the material left would be about only 1mm around the bearing. I say it under all reserve, because i don't see the new case yet.

But for sure i'll order a set of V2 case + pinion, just to have it in my toolbox in case of my V1 fail.

I am hoping, that Mike still has a few of the machined down ones. I want to try something, so others with the V1 might can strengthen them. I think the cavity can be filled with JB Weld and that will help by preventing a flex point. Besides, I don't want to have to buy the V2 if the V1 is still good. with christmas coming i don't got the disposable income to swing them till after