My Revos!!!
 

Here are both of my revos. Just finished both of them, and have a few runs on each. The first has the full Teknno conversion, an Aveox 2000kv, quark 80 air, 5s 5000mah lipo. Running a JR 9100t for steering and a futaba 3050 for brakes, off a y cable with the esc. The quark programs easy to just use the positve throttle range, no brakes or reverse. Currently have a 15/40 gearing, will step down to a 14t clutchbell as the speed is a bit much (radared at 44mph!). Way different than driving a direct drive electric, the clutch softens the takeoff. It will still wheely, just not as aggressively. I like the setup, just need better tires, the talons are a little soft for that kind of speed.

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Here is the other Revo. It is Metalman's old revo that he built, I bought it off Mailman who got it in a trade. I did a few mods to the "slipperential" and added some lexan side guards and emaxx battery trays. Currently has a 7xl on a MM running 4s 500mah lipo. Has a hitec 645 for steering on it. It is a 3racing extended chassis that came out before the 3.3. It also has the extended wheelbase rear arms, so it is about truggy length. Runs good, but could do with better batteries as they are heating up a bit more than I like. The center diff really makes it turn well, and keeps all of the tires on the ground too! I cusom made the front cvd out of an emaxx cvd, just cut it in half and welded back to the length I needed.


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Excellant work Lincpimp. A couple of very nice revo's you have there!

How does the single steering servo feel compared to the dual 2055's? I like how the dual servo's feel, but I'm doing a Electric Conversion of my own right now. Space is such an issue.

Does the Mamba Max esc serve that setup pretty good? I recently purchased one from Ebay. A 7700kv motor/esc combo. The guy said that it would work for a few minutes and then shut down. He stated that "Only 10 packs ran through, don't know what's wrong with it, so I'm selling it for parts only!" $30 bucks! I grabbed that.

When I got it, I checked it out. Turned out to be a bad male 4mm connector on the motor! :surprised:

Great Revo's! Thanks for posting. Gives me new ideas.

your brake servo's horn on the first one is at a rather weird angle? is the brake predictable?

I can't get over the idea that it's odd to use a clutch on an electric vehicle.. It's adding maintanance and unneeded rotational mass parts.

you got lucky on that combo sikeston! 30 bucks! not bad.. too bad that guy didn't knew about castles warrantee though..

Awesome stuff man! I think the clutch setup will be great!

why would it be great? can you explain?

The rotational mass you speak of is so minimal it would not even matter. As far as what my explanation is on this is that it will allow much more adjust ability as far as setting the slipper clutch up and such. I think it will be very appreciated for the racers. Another thing I know for a fact is that the guys at Tekno really R & D the crap out of all there products. And from the other products they currently sell that I bought I have no reason to believe that this setup would be any less than great. I know they have done extensive testing on this setup with no ill effects.

Rotational mass on the point where it's most critical. that's what it is. it's far from neglectable.

racers usually know how to setup their radio/speedcontroller, it might be okay for those who jumped from nitro to electric, but other than that it's pretty useless.

and the maintanance free factor of brushless isn't helped by it either.

I'm with you serum, I can't see why you'd want to have a power-losing device such as that in your driveline. One of the main advantages of electric is the crisp acceleration that you get with direct drive. I see the clutch as throwing that away.

With anything like this, when stuff doesn't make sense, follow the money. I'm betting that it was way easier and cheaper for tekno to stick the clutch setup on the end of a motor than it was to get the motor under that roll bar there.

I'm not saying it's a bad setup, because it obviously works...it's just not for me.

Sleeb

yep! i share your opinion on the money technical solution for the clutch thing..

Here, here.... I would rather have a Feigao motor with no clutch, than a Neu with a clutch on it. I think they shot themselves in the foot on that one.

Hey sike, Thanks for the kind words. I have only driven a nitro revo with the dual servos, all of my electric revos have had a single. The tekno revo with the jr servo is insane, I have the cc bec set at 6.5 v anf it swings the wheels like nothing, even hard on the brakes. I am going to swap out the MM in the slipper revo for a modded one that griffinru did for me. It does get hot when running the 7xl, especially with the current 20/40 gearing. I will also step up to 20/44 gearing, found some mod1 44t spurs that should work after some mods! Great deal on the MM combo, those 4mm plugs were loose on all of mine (7) and caused probs too, sell the 7700 motor on ebay, they go for at least 50 bucks, and are junk IMO.

Hey serum, the brake servo is setup like that cause I am using a Y cable to run the brake sevo and esc off the same channel. So of course the servo moves both ways. With the linkage setup that way it barely moves the linkage when the throttle is applied, thus making the brakes apply faster when going from full throttle to full brake. I have it set so that the brakes just lock up at full brake, and fell linear before that point. I had to play with the length of fuel tubing to get the right feel. I have a 3 channel which I intend to use to mix channels so that the servo does not move when the throttle is applied.

Now on the clutch topic, it is definately different. From a standstill, full throttle can be applied quickly and it does not instantly flip over. It will flip but the clutch does slip and it is noticable. With very small throttle input, the motor just spins, and you can gradually feed in more and make it move very sowly. Only down side is clutch temps. Like an idiot I touched it last night and burned myself! It was hot, more than a feigao after a 30min run:lol:

It is something different, that is all I can say. I am not a racer, but I have now run both a nitro 3.3 and this electric 3.3 and I can say that this is way superior. Not sure if that will translate to the track, but the setup does work. I have found that the largest gearing that can be used is a 15/40. That is the full adjustment on the motor mount. I am going down to a 14t clutchbell as this is heating up the aveox a little. I will say that it is tough, I flipped it quite a few times at 40mph and went into a ditch and various catwheels, nothing broke or shifted.

that heat you felt is just a waste of energy, you know that.. :)