best truggy?
 

Hey guys new to the site!

I am thinking of buying a truggy, what seems to be the most popular and the best supported truggy on the market?

Personally, I think a LSP with some mods is one of the best truggies available, but it gets costly. If your looking for something thats great out of the box, I'd go for a Mugen MBX5T Prospec or a Xray XT8.

hey squee, what are the basic mods you'll need to do to make a lsp very race-ready?

Granted you start with a LSP-R and go brushless, there is a ST-R arm convertion that basically changes the way the truck drives. It consist of HB buggy towers, ST-R arms and driveshafts, ST-R c-hubs, Mugen tie rods, the factory LSP knuckles, different springs, pistons, and swaybars. That right there eliminates alot of the usual mods like converting to 17mm hubs (ST-R shafts are 17mm, so no need to convert anything with the ST-R setup). That in combination with a few of the usual hopups like CF rear brace, HB CNC buggy front brace or two if you have room, and a few other things like the HB GTX heavy duty diff cases and doubled up ackerman plates. Thats mostly it.

I like the Kyosho M777. Not saying it's the best, but great right out of the box with a nice O.S. motor.

Thanks for the replys! Question though whats an LSP?

HotBodies Lightning StadiumPro

I'm gonna have to chime in and recommend an 8ight-T over the LSP. I've owned both and the 8T is far more durable(imo). In addition, the off-center drive train lends itself perfectly to a well balanced conversion.

My vote would be the XT8. I was thinking of the 8ight-t at first but really liked the precision of the XT8 and durability. Although I haven't driven it yet - still working on the conversion!

What kinda of duability issues? Like I've said, the LSP is great WITH modifications. For the initial price, there really nice.

My issues were mostly front a-arm and Diff stripping. If I ran plastic a-arms, they broke; If I ran aluminum a-arms, the pins and retainers bent or broke. I couldn't tell you how many diff. gears and pinions I went through, but It was a lot. The only drive train issue I've had on my mostly stock 8ight-T after almost a year of racing was the front cvd pins sliding out but a little lock-tite and heat shrink solved that problem. It has the original a-arms on it and I haven't even ever shimmed the diffs. Just change the fluids and drive. I'm not saying the LSP is a bad truck, especially considering the price. But if you spend the money on the modifications needed to make it a little more durable, you've spent what you would have(or close anyway) on an 8T. Of coarse, it's only my opinion.........

Yea, I understand what your saying. The diffs and arms are easy fixes. The ST-R conversion fixes the arm problem. The aluminum LSP arms are nice, but they will cause other things to break if your hard on it. Kingheadz holders would have probably solved your problem since there WAY stronger than the stock ones, even the stock CNC ones on the Pro-R. The plastic arms are just plain horrible. They flex WAY to much. The ST-R conversion solves both problems. As far as diffs, it really depends on the gears you buy. The original hardened gears (before HPI bought HB) almost never give out unless there not shimmed. The Kyosho gears are easier to get since the original HB gears are almost impossible to find. The Kyosho gears would have solved the problems you had.

Like I said, its a great truck after a few modifications. Granted you will probably spend just as much on the LSP-R and the parts to do the mods as a nice new 8T cost, but from what I've been told, it will out perform it.

Thanks for the info, has anyone tried any of the OFNA truggys?

Have you considered a Thunder Tiger ST-1? I saw in RCDriver that the price has been reduced to $369, which is an incredibly good deal! Plus, they are just about unbreakable, and Mike is currently developing a motor mount for it. It'll be in his store in a few weeks.

gotta agree with sower. mine hasnt been run yet either.... but damn is it beutifull:intello::lol::party: