My emaxx build
 

Finished the major assembly into a rolling chassis. Parts list includes:

RC Best full steel CVD set
RC Monster Hardened steel idler gear for the tranny
RRP Slipper
Flextek arms
Lunsford Ti hinge pins
UE Knucklehead towers
Traxxas big bore shocks
GARC Titanium skidplates, front and rear
GARC 7075 T-6 bulkheads/braces
GARC 7075 T-6 diff cases
Nova RC 7075 T-6 diff cups (w/ 3mm screws)
FLM 6061 T-6 extended E-Maxx chassis (6mm thick (!) and extended 35mm)

Yeah, it's brushed for now, but that won't be for long. :lol:

<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f5180004.html"><img src="http://a0.vox.com/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f5180004-500pi" alt="Top" title="Top" /></a><br />
<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f5180004.html">Top</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92c0005.html"><img src="http://a4.vox.com/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92c0005-500pi" alt="Detail" title="Detail" /></a><br />
<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92c0005.html">Detail</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92d0005.html"><img src="http://a5.vox.com/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92d0005-500pi" alt="Tired" title="Tired" /></a><br />
<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398c8f92d0005.html">Tired</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

looks sweet.

All that bling and the stock motors :( I went the other route. Brushless on stock then slowly upgrading. Just finished the FLM chassis install, Next I will have to do something with the drive shafts.... they are getting pretty twisted.

Highflier

The current plan is to put a 10XL in it with a 5S LiPo. I've got everything I need to get it in there, except for the pinion for the motor, and that's getting ordered today.

Don't worry, it'll be tearing up the neigborhood soon. :)

As for the driveshafts, look at doing the switch to revo ones. They're tough and inexpensive.

Sleeb

For a moment I thought "Sleeb with an Emaxx, sounds a bit tame for him?", but then I see you have gone all hardcore with the build! The whole thing looks really solid, except maybe theose RCBest cvds- I dont know why, but I tend to think of Integy when I see their stuff, hopefully Im wrong though. 10Xl on 5s should be a cool runner with tons of power & runtime- what esc are you going to use?

Hehehe, well funny story, that emaxx there (although there's not much left of the original) is what got me back into R/C. I've replaced so much that I should have just bought the parts, rather than take an existing one and build it up. Derrr.

Actually, those CVDs are really pretty solid. At least they were with the stock system...they definitely made the acceleration snappier, since it wasn't winding up the plastic shafts. Of course, that lead to me blowing up the rear diff cup. Those have been replaced with the Nova RC 7075 cups.

However, if they do give me problems, I'm going to go the revo shaft route like you did. Do you have a list of part numbers you used? I remember you had a problem with the turnbuckle length I think.

Yup, the 10XL on 5S does run nice and cool...it's what I have running the Hyper 7 right now, but it's going to get moved over to the emaxx. I think when the MMM comes out, I will get another 10XL and run it with 6S A123. The weight of that will be more in line with what should be in it. That two-pound brick I have in there now is too heavy, but fine for the emaxx. :)

Sleeb

I dont have the part numbers, but all the bits you need can be had cheapily & easily from ebay:-
Knuckles with bearings x4
Drive shafts x4
Tmaxx 3.3 turnbuckles (I bought old emaxx ones the first time around, woops)

And thats all you need, shouldnt cost more than about $40 ish at the most, and the newer drive shafts are solid; I run a locked slipper on my 13lb Gmaxx, and so far so good. The MMM esc should be well worth the wait I reckon, especially if it will be $300 with motor, cant beat that for value I reckon.

Ahhhhhhh! That was it. Ok, that's cool. I'll keep this for reference for sure. I bought those CVDs when I didn't worry about breaking parts & replacing due to wear, but that will come into play now. Looks like the changeover is really simple then.

Sleeb

Ok folks, Mike saved the day by getting my pinions to me pronto. A few twists of the screw and we have this:

<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398cb58cc0001.html"><img src="http://a4.vox.com/6a00e398a943af000400e398cb58cc0001-500pi" alt="Full" title="Full" /></a><br />
<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398cb58cc0001.html">Full</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

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<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398cb58cd0001.html">Back</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

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<a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/library/photo/6a00e398a943af000400e398cb60410002.html">Mesh</a> from <a href="http://sleebus.vox.com/">http://sleebus.vox.com/</a>

Lifespan of the idler gear(s): about 5 minutes after I tightened down the slipper a bit. Oops. I've got some teardown to do tomorrow.

Sleeb

Hi Sleebus

That is one fine looking ride! :yes:

I thought you already had the RCM steel idlers in it?

I always found the transmission to be the weak link. If you have the steel idlers in and haven't tore it down yet, I bet it's one of the output gears or the drive dog.

My first tranny breakdown, I ripped the teeth off the plastic idler for 1st gear. I replaced those with steel. Next it was the output gear for 1st, ripped the teeth off of that. Next time it broke down, it was the teeth ripped off the 2nd gear output. Then my last time, the output shaft stripped out the hole in the drive dog. Oh yeah, and there was a time when the two drive dog prongs that go into the 1st gear output broke off.

I've never had any problems with the input shaft gears or the steel idlers.

If you can get the metal gears, they will handle alot more torque.:yes:

Well, I *have* the idlers, they're just not *installed*. :)

So, silly me on that part. Just wanted to check to see what it would do, I think I should have waited a bit! I'll tear down the tranny and do a damage report.

UPDATE: Well, it wasn't the tranny after all. I took it apart, saw a fair bit of plastic dust inside, but no chunks, and no missing teeth. I installed the steel idlers and closed it back up. Checked rear diff, no problems. Checked front diff, and the wheels spun opposing no problem, but I couldn't turn the input shaft to the diff very well.

Argh. That means complete disassembly of the front end.

Turns out I didn't put threadlock on the diff screws, so one of them backed out and was hitting the inside of the case. I put TL on all the screws, reassembled and went for a test drive...no problems. This thing has crazy power. It's hard to tell the difference between 1st and 2nd gear, because it wheelies just as easy in both gears. Yikes. Now I need to re-glue tires. :)

Superglue = holds the universe together. Good to hear it performs well- what are the temps like, given the time of year et al.

pic question
 

Howdy,

Sweet looking truck!! Question, how do you post pictures with your log.

I am not the most computer literate so please be specific.

I have pics of my t-maxx which is now bl. & would like to post them.

Any help would be appreciated.


thanks

1. Sign up to photobucket.com or some other picture hosting website (its free).
2. Upload your photos to that site- 640x480 is best.
3. Copy and paste the image code to the forum.

thanks for the advice!!!