my RCM crt.5
 

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_3.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_4.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_5.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_6.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_7.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jrwoodjr/rc/crt.5_0.jpg

I like shiney things, what motor and esc etc will you be using?

didnt you put this up for sale?

This is the one for sale. He just wanted to show pictures of it for those interested in buying it. :smile:

Ya, unfortunately I have to part with this one :cry:
When fully loaded I ran a mm on 3S Kokam 3200's and a Mega Motors ACn22/35/1
Needless to say, this was a beast with that setup.
I love the construction and durability of these trucks. I would highly recommend Mikes conversion chassis for anyone looking to convert thier crt.5 to brushless. Unfortuanately, I have several other projects going on so I have to part this one.

I am actually still working on a simple plastic spur gear solution for these trucks and should have an update very soon. I'll be checking the mail today to see if my stuff arrived so hopefully I have an update sooner than later.

I'll keep you posted.

could you just use 1/8 buggy diff mounts like ofna or jammin ?.

There are several issues with using 1/8th scale diff parts.
The holes for the diff mounts may not line up correctly and since a 1/8th scale diff is longer, you would have to drill new holes in the front and/or rear to attach the 1/8th scale mounts. This would also cause you to have to use different size dogbones.
The output yokes are smaller bore and depth on the crt.5 so std 1/8th scale yokes are not compatible for this application. You could change to 1/8th scale yokes and dogbones on the F/R but these parts are heavier and really overkill for 1/10th scale trucks.
The crt.5 uses 10x15mm bearings so any combination of 1/8th and 1/12 scale parts won't be compatible.
So far there is no easy solution, until now :party:
Well, almost now.....

I received some stuff for other projects today but nothing for this solution :diablo:
Hopfully it comes later this week.
This solution should be drop in and go...
Once it arrives I'll have an update shortly after :party:

I've had great results from just running hardened steel pinions. However, a plastic spur would be quieter when I’m running at the indoor electric track. I’m the only one running a nitro conversion at my local track so I get a lot of looks from the hardcore racers, but they are also surprised at how fun and fast the little .5 is.

How much if any do your lipo's hang off the chassis ?.

It depends on how you mount them. The kokam's basical sit flat on the chassis with just a touch over. I mount mine in a plsatic case which goes over the side ~1/4 inch but still fits fine under the body and is protected in hard plastic. If I mount the kokam's on their side, they will not hang over the edge naked or in the plastic case.

So will the maxamps 2s packs hang over the chassis slightly if i lay them flat & not if i put them on there side ?. Also will the mini servos work on this chassis if thats all you have ?.

The maxamps packs are 44mm wide so they will hang over the edge about 5mm
The mini servo's will fit but you will have to drill new holes to mount them.

I would definetly recommend a full size servo

Thanks for your repliy's.

There has been a great bit of discussion about whether to run metal to metal pinion/spur or use a plastic spur.

I think that if you are using a cheaper motor like a feigao then metal to metal seems fine. However, I have a hard time justifying the use of an expensive motor, like a NEU/Mega etc, with metal to metal because if something is going to give, I'd rather have it be a plastic spur than an expensive motor.