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CRT.5 Durability
Anyone else having durability issues with the CRT.5's stock plastic parts?
Every time I've taken this truck out, and I mean every time, I've either broken an upper or lower arm, a c hub, a steering knuckle, a body mount post, a wing mount etc... always plastic parts, never have an issue with core drive line and chassis. I'm geared for mid thirties, nothing over the top in terms of speed and I've only been bashing around in the front yard and road - no crazy jumps. I wouldn't normally care about this, but its the one vehicle I own thats not supported by the LHS and all of these basic parts issues means a lot of visits to nitrohouse or amainhobbies (and a lot of glares from the wife as more packages show up on the door step :whistle:). I've not worked with OFNA products before - are their plastics the type that need "boiled"? Steve |
The only thing I've broken so far is a shock cap. Everything else seems pretty sturdy. Is it cold where you live? Cold plastic is brittle...
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steve sorry about your luck. All i know is my .5 is one of the toughest vechiles i have ever had. The onl part i have broken is the plastic shock, but that was my fault because i did not have the droop screws set right.
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Its been moderately cold weather (30's or so). I don't take anything but the beater emaxx out in colder weather.
Its probably just luck of the draw.. hitting things just so. |
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The cold weather will affect how the plastic reacts to a impact as will your driving :lol:. |
Been running mine for since April of last year and the only thing I've broken so far is a rear upright when I tangled with an 1/8th scale buggy!
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My list is surprisingly large - front body post, front bumper support, front upper and lower arms, and I've blown both front shocks at the same time.
I just installed some Jammin 1/8 front buggy shocks with blue springs onto the rear of my .5, I don't know what oil is in them though (got them from a buddy for $5). |
i havent broken anything and i've had it since aug i most not be beating it hard enough lol
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I've broken lots of front lower arms. The track I drive is super high bite clay and indoors with big jumps and poles supporting the ceiling. Essentially you are going 30 - 40mph indoors. When something goes wrong you hit the walls and poles really hard.
When I drive at outdoor tracks (no walls, no poles, wider, looser = less speed in the corners, softer dirt) I rarely break anything. |
Weak
My LHS has no Jammin' parts. I broke a front knuckle with just the slightest rub. I was thinking about going CNC but now that I hear about all the other breakage problems, mine's going up for sale. I only bought this car for durability, I'll stick with 1/8 thanks.
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I've broken the front left upper arm, and lost a shock cap. These trucks are very durable, but not like a 1/8th is. I will say that this truck has taken more of a beating than my old T4 or Rustler did, and broken less. |
Want to offer me a deal on it :)
Have a nice FLM / Carbon Pede for trade.... Very bashable... PS Oh yes on the wifey front - she's stopped picking up the mail now :) I'm so dead when my victory 2.8 wheels and tires arrive... |
I'm giving mine more time.. I like the overall setup so I'm hoping the cold weather is part of the problem.
This week, I have parts for the crt.5 showing up, batteries for the e-maxx showing up, and (early next week most likely) a Mega motor. I'm doooooomed.... |
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You need to use aluminum hop ups instead. I saved myself the trouble and assembelled it with all possible hop ups in the market( I only need to get the aluminum servo saver set).
The durability is just incredible. |
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