RC-Monster Forums - View Single Post - HOW TO: Quark Mod / LSP Conversion *PIC OVERLOAD WARNING*

01:01 AM

um.. I can't edit the thred title,.. so PICTURE OVERLOAD WARNING

This thread is a full report of my quark thermal mod, and lsp buildup / first runs.

First, here's a list of parts I used to build up my LSP-R

Lightning Stadium Pro-R - HBS66200 - $259.95 - http://tinyurl.com/2vk3c8

HB 22 Degree Front Hub Carriers - HBSC8011-1 - $4.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2692
Hot Bodies Aluminum Front Suspension Holder - HBSC8116-2 - $23.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2760
Hot Bodies Front/Rear Upper Suspension Arm Set - HBSC8005-1 - $5.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2685
Hot Bodies Screw & Ball Front Upper Arms - HBSC8134 - $3.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2886
2x Sportwerks Front/Rear CVD Axles - SWK3177 - $5.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5519
Hot Bodies Front Pins for Upper Suspension - HBSC8012 - $2.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2693
OFNA 2.5x17mm Hex Hub Pins - OFN36055 - $3.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3675
Team Losi F/R Drive Shaft: LST - LOSB3502 - $10.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5925
Team Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set: LST - LOSB3505 - $5.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5928
OFNA 17mm Hard Anodized Wheel Nuts - OFN40550 - $4.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3780
HPI X-Wide Hex Adapter 7.5mm - HPI87534 - $7.75 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8523

Kyosho 46 tooth nylon spur 1/8 diffs - $5.00 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...YOIF148&cat=40
Brushless motor mount - Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium - $40 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=LSPmotormount
Quark Monster Pro 125B Brushless Sensorless Speed Controller - $280 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21
Neu 1512 2.5d/f Sensorless Brushless Motor - $225 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...2_2.5df&cat=20
Extermal BEC/UBEC - $37 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=6vubec
Hitec HSC-5955 Titanium Gear High Speed Servo - $115 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...tec5955tgservo

2x Custom built TrueRC 18.5V 5S1P 4000mAh - $90 - http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/custompack.htm
2x Apache Smart Balancer and Guard 505 - $23.95 - http://www.icare-rc.com/chargers.htm
2x Astroflight 109d Lithium Charger - 109D - $119.95 - http://www.astroflight.com/store/sto...nFHIL0syk7G4I7

Other random parts used:
drill bits, and nuts and bolts, various sizes.
1/16" thick 1"x3' aluminum stock, cut into 4 pieces of equal length
2x heavy duty velcro straps
a Pentium 1 Heatsink with a high CFM fan

I'm using a JR XS3 Tx/Rx, and am also currently running Proline Maxx Mulchers on Ofna MT3 (dominator) rims, or any 1/8 buggy rim/tire.

If you'd like me to post a HIGH resolution picture of any posted here, just let me know, as some of the pictures, you can't make out that much detail.
ok, to get started, here's how I mod'd my quark controller.

OPENING THE QUARK 125B WILL VOID WARRANTY, but cooling is improved, and will most likely solve thermal issues, if you have them.

I broke the side of my case off, but if you do the mod, you should try not to ;)
Here's the controller, with the end cap, and cover removed:

I found a copper shim that was a little too long, and a little too thin, for a direct replacement, over the stock thermal pads and aluminum shim.
I cut the shim with a dremel to get the right length, and then because it's thinner, I had a friend mill out about 1/2 the thickness of the case, where the capacitors sit.

I cleaned the components with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, then used Artic Silver's Arctic Alumina (http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a..._adhesive.htm), I epoxied the shim to the FETs first, and then epoxied the shim/controller to the bottom of the case:

The controller's PCB isn't perfectly flat, so using two small clamps kept all of the FETs completely flat against the copper shim.
I also had to file down the little nubs, and the bottom of the motor-wire-side end-cap (if that makes sense). Because the entire assembly now sits a little lower than originally, the nubs don't fit into the slots in the side of the case.

	(#1)
A4DTM Guest Posts: n/a	*HOW TO: Quark Mod / LSP Conversion PIC OVERLOAD WARNING* - 04.23.2007, 12:35 AM um.. I can't edit the thred title,.. so PICTURE OVERLOAD WARNING** This thread is a full report of my quark thermal mod, and lsp buildup / first runs. First, here's a list of parts I used to build up my LSP-R Lightning Stadium Pro-R - HBS66200 - $259.95 - http://tinyurl.com/2vk3c8 HB 22 Degree Front Hub Carriers - HBSC8011-1 - $4.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2692 Hot Bodies Aluminum Front Suspension Holder - HBSC8116-2 - $23.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2760 Hot Bodies Front/Rear Upper Suspension Arm Set - HBSC8005-1 - $5.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2685 Hot Bodies Screw & Ball Front Upper Arms - HBSC8134 - $3.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2886 2x Sportwerks Front/Rear CVD Axles - SWK3177 - $5.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5519 Hot Bodies Front Pins for Upper Suspension - HBSC8012 - $2.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2693 OFNA 2.5x17mm Hex Hub Pins - OFN36055 - $3.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3675 Team Losi F/R Drive Shaft: LST - LOSB3502 - $10.49 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5925 Team Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set: LST - LOSB3505 - $5.99 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5928 OFNA 17mm Hard Anodized Wheel Nuts - OFN40550 - $4.25 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3780 HPI X-Wide Hex Adapter 7.5mm - HPI87534 - $7.75 - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8523 Kyosho 46 tooth nylon spur 1/8 diffs - $5.00 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...YOIF148&cat=40 Brushless motor mount - Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium - $40 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=LSPmotormount Quark Monster Pro 125B Brushless Sensorless Speed Controller - $280 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21 Neu 1512 2.5d/f Sensorless Brushless Motor - $225 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...2_2.5df&cat=20 Extermal BEC/UBEC - $37 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=6vubec Hitec HSC-5955 Titanium Gear High Speed Servo - $115 - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...tec5955tgservo 2x Custom built TrueRC 18.5V 5S1P 4000mAh - $90 - http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/custompack.htm 2x Apache Smart Balancer and Guard 505 - $23.95 - http://www.icare-rc.com/chargers.htm 2x Astroflight 109d Lithium Charger - 109D - $119.95 - http://www.astroflight.com/store/sto...nFHIL0syk7G4I7 Other random parts used: drill bits, and nuts and bolts, various sizes. 1/16" thick 1"x3' aluminum stock, cut into 4 pieces of equal length 2x heavy duty velcro straps a Pentium 1 Heatsink with a high CFM fan I'm using a JR XS3 Tx/Rx, and am also currently running Proline Maxx Mulchers on Ofna MT3 (dominator) rims, or any 1/8 buggy rim/tire. If you'd like me to post a HIGH resolution picture of any posted here, just let me know, as some of the pictures, you can't make out that much detail. ok, to get started, here's how I mod'd my quark controller. OPENING THE QUARK 125B WILL VOID WARRANTY, but cooling is improved, and will most likely solve thermal issues, if you have them. I broke the side of my case off, but if you do the mod, you should try not to ;) Here's the controller, with the end cap, and cover removed: I found a copper shim that was a little too long, and a little too thin, for a direct replacement, over the stock thermal pads and aluminum shim. I cut the shim with a dremel to get the right length, and then because it's thinner, I had a friend mill out about 1/2 the thickness of the case, where the capacitors sit. I cleaned the components with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, then used Artic Silver's Arctic Alumina (http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a..._adhesive.htm), I epoxied the shim to the FETs first, and then epoxied the shim/controller to the bottom of the case: The controller's PCB isn't perfectly flat, so using two small clamps kept all of the FETs completely flat against the copper shim. I also had to file down the little nubs, and the bottom of the motor-wire-side end-cap (if that makes sense). Because the entire assembly now sits a little lower than originally, the nubs don't fit into the slots in the side of the case. Last edited by A4DTM; 04.23.2007 at 01:01 AM.