RC-Monster Forums - View Single Post - 60 mph mamba brushless setup for e-maxx, would this work?

06.04.2007, 05:50 PM

extremexmods, yeah, they limit it to 3S for a reason. The reason is that the internal bec can only handle 3S. Just about everyone that has done a 1/8 scale conversion and is running the MM is doing so on 4S lipo. A 3S setup will draw too many amps for the battery and probably the MM to handle.

I don't run the 7XL in any of my trucks any longer. The 7XL just plain gets to hot for any sort of extended running. As I said before, the MM very comfortably handles 4S lipo. In consideration of your goal here, you'll want to go as light as possible, so you might want to consider lipo rather than li-mn. Li-Mn is heavier than lipo and every ounce counts. Whether you go lipo or limn, you'll need an approprite charger and balancer. Don't forget those and figure about $200 (or more) to get setup.

You're going to need a bec to run the electronics and a fan on the MM to help to keep it cool. For high stress running and to further help to keep temps down, I've found the addition of four 330uf, 35v capacitors to be helpful. My MM rarely gets to over 135*F.

I also go with heavier wiring. Usually some sort of high strand count 12 gauge wires for both the motor and battery connections and either hardwire the motor leads or use good connectors. I've found the 5.5mm connectors to work well, as well as using a dedicated deans plug for each motor lead (although this is a bit bulky). Replacing the wires on the esc requires the use of a good soldering iron. I know that some have managed to do it with a stick iron, but the best thing to use is a good soldering station with a 5mm chisel tip that can transfer lots of heat quickly, so that you aren't on the soldering pads too long with the heat. You should also take note that I have noticed a protective coating on the MM pcbs that covers the solder joints. It's best to scrape this away with an exacto or something. It makes the soldering a lot easier.

The MM is the best bang for the buck controller and even if you fry it and they won't warranty it, the cost is only $50 to get it fixed.

Are you just asking questions about this particular mod or is this your first conversion?

If it is your first leap into a brushless conversion, I would suggest that you do a bit of research before you just start wiring components together.

	(#11)
AAngel Guest Posts: n/a	06.04.2007, 05:50 PM extremexmods, yeah, they limit it to 3S for a reason. The reason is that the internal bec can only handle 3S. Just about everyone that has done a 1/8 scale conversion and is running the MM is doing so on 4S lipo. A 3S setup will draw too many amps for the battery and probably the MM to handle. I don't run the 7XL in any of my trucks any longer. The 7XL just plain gets to hot for any sort of extended running. As I said before, the MM very comfortably handles 4S lipo. In consideration of your goal here, you'll want to go as light as possible, so you might want to consider lipo rather than li-mn. Li-Mn is heavier than lipo and every ounce counts. Whether you go lipo or limn, you'll need an approprite charger and balancer. Don't forget those and figure about $200 (or more) to get setup. You're going to need a bec to run the electronics and a fan on the MM to help to keep it cool. For high stress running and to further help to keep temps down, I've found the addition of four 330uf, 35v capacitors to be helpful. My MM rarely gets to over 135*F. I also go with heavier wiring. Usually some sort of high strand count 12 gauge wires for both the motor and battery connections and either hardwire the motor leads or use good connectors. I've found the 5.5mm connectors to work well, as well as using a dedicated deans plug for each motor lead (although this is a bit bulky). Replacing the wires on the esc requires the use of a good soldering iron. I know that some have managed to do it with a stick iron, but the best thing to use is a good soldering station with a 5mm chisel tip that can transfer lots of heat quickly, so that you aren't on the soldering pads too long with the heat. You should also take note that I have noticed a protective coating on the MM pcbs that covers the solder joints. It's best to scrape this away with an exacto or something. It makes the soldering a lot easier. The MM is the best bang for the buck controller and even if you fry it and they won't warranty it, the cost is only $50 to get it fixed. Are you just asking questions about this particular mod or is this your first conversion? If it is your first leap into a brushless conversion, I would suggest that you do a bit of research before you just start wiring components together.