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06.07.2007, 12:24 AM
Hey, everyone has to be good at something. I wouldn't say that I have a talent for breaking things. I'd say that I have a talent for finding the weak points in equipment.
I'm not going to mess with the torque setting. I like it the way it is. I'm over all of the break neck torque stuff. With the 100,000 diff fluid in it, it still wheelies on demand and you have to watch it in the dirt. As for the lipo setting, I programmed it for manual and set the cutoff to 3v per cell. Even though I did this, will setting the lipo to high do anything?
I'm running a Spektrum DX2.0 radio and I can't get the truck to creep. It just kind of starts off at a roll. If you can creep around with the 7XL, it may have something to do with the gearing. I'm sure that I'm running a larger pinion than you are with the 9XL, so for every revolution of the motor, my truck should cover more distance. I'm not saying that I dislike it, it was just an observation. I need to get it out on the track and see.
The last time I was out on the track, a few people commented that they liked the way that the MM ran better than the Quark. From what I've seen so far, I'm inclined to agree. After all of this, I may still wind up with a MM/Lehner combo after all. To each his own, I suppose. If Castle releases the "fix." I'll have a couple of controllers up for sale.
The funny thing is that I ran it for a few minutes. I took a temp on the case of the Quark and got around 115F. I took a temp on the top plastic cover of the Quark and got 130F. Go figure. It didn't thermal on me, so that's good.
I need to remount my esc. Right now, I have it on a plate that double as the center diff plate and the heat of the motor is sinking from the motor mount to the esc mount, so I don't know if the heat is coming from the esc, or the motor. I'll have to turn a couple of standoffs and mount the esc plate to the standoffs and bolt them into the existing engine holes and see what the temps are like.
If this Quark takes a dump, I think I might have to take a ride over to S&T and have a talk with those guys.
Oh, I forgot to mention, they did warranty it. It was a case of no news is good news. They sent me a whole new controller. I didn't even open it up. I didn't want to take a chance on anything. I just wired up the cap bank and added the connectors.
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