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lincpimp
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Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
11.07.2007, 12:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
That purple diff cup was a throw-off! But I know what you mean about the wear on the Savage aluminum diff cup, with the wear that developed.

The center diff on there is essentially a Hyper 7/8 diff. That means that you can use pretty much and 1/8 scale diff outputs, that a dogbone would fit into. Like these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCVR6&P=7
This will be a much sturdier way to do it than putting output cups on the current output shafts, and should also lessen wear due to a better fit.

As for a center skid plate, just be sure that whatever you make allows the screw heads (of 4mm countersunk screws) to not stick out from the skidplate.

Just curious, does the broken portion of the chassis at the rear of the stock motor mounting area not bother you? It didn't bother me, TBH. But that's one reason why I sent along a brand new 3.3 chassis to Mailman when I traded him the truck.
The broken portion does not bother me, not enought to strip the entire truck apart. Plus I like the the chassis has the steering servos up front and the extended portion behind them. Gives me more room to move the battery trays forward. Do you think that the savage cups would work, they are similar to the one you pictured, one piece style. The only problem that Ican see is that the bulkhead may have to have the hole enlarged where the output shaft passes through, to give clearance for the one piece diff cup. The one piece cup sits closer to the diff than the current setup.

I did enlarge the hole that the slipper shaft passes through, so that I could use one of the bearing races, that you we using as a spacer, as a spacer between the slipper backing plate and the bearing. I then placed the 20t gear on the slipper shaft with 2 traxxas washers between it and the bearing, so that the slipper shaft was held tightly from both sides of the bearing = no slop there. It also allowed me to use some thin wall al tube to space the other bearing in the rear bulk the correct distance away. Thus the slipper shaft spins very smoothly, and has no front to rear slop, and the backing plate can't contact the front bulk anymore. I guess that I am just improving on your design, which seems well thought out anyway. If you make another one of these may I suggest that you use a 46t spur on the ctr diff and a 20t gear like this setup. That would allow for the use of a mgt 46t spur on the slipper and give enough clearance to use the stock driveshaft with out any clearance issues with the spur.

I have found some hpi 44 t spurs that may be able to be converted to use the revo slipper. i will get them tomorrow and see what I can do. The slipper and center diff really make the truck handle well and it does seem easy on the diffs too. I see that Mike is making an integrated center diff and slipper, will be nice for the truggy conversions!
   
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