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sikeston34m · 11.30.2007, 10:30 PM

@Metalman:

Please share your ideas if you come up with something concrete on the shaft/slipper thingie. I believe in a Monster Truck, a clutch assembly ONLY on the rear shaft would give you the results that you're pondering.

The rear diff is the one that takes most of the abuse. This would retain full braking power with the front diff.

On the shaft material that you have, cut it to the length you need, stick it in a drill press, then sand it down with the chuck spinning at a good speed. Do a little at a time and check it. You might be surprised at how well this cuts. I always used a motor bearing to check the diameter as I went.

This type of setup is hard on the diffs. That's why I've went to the lengths that I have to insure diff toughness. I think if a diff is tough enough, it should be able to withstand jumps with full throttle landings. Or at least, I think that should be the goal.

I ordered the Aluminum cups for the diffs a few minutes ago. A little extra insurance against internal flexing.

I also took out the rear diff and redone the shimming. I wanted to tighten it up, so instead of 3 (.2mm) shims behind the pinion, I now have 4 there. I also put one between the ring gear and the bearing to move it over just a tad.

When I put the diff back together, it spins freely with no pinion play at all. There was some play before.

	(#178)
sikeston34m RC-Monster Brushless Offline Posts: 2,085 Join Date: Sep 2007	11.30.2007, 10:30 PM @Metalman: Please share your ideas if you come up with something concrete on the shaft/slipper thingie. I believe in a Monster Truck, a clutch assembly ONLY on the rear shaft would give you the results that you're pondering. The rear diff is the one that takes most of the abuse. This would retain full braking power with the front diff. On the shaft material that you have, cut it to the length you need, stick it in a drill press, then sand it down with the chuck spinning at a good speed. Do a little at a time and check it. You might be surprised at how well this cuts. I always used a motor bearing to check the diameter as I went. This type of setup is hard on the diffs. That's why I've went to the lengths that I have to insure diff toughness. I think if a diff is tough enough, it should be able to withstand jumps with full throttle landings. Or at least, I think that should be the goal. I ordered the Aluminum cups for the diffs a few minutes ago. A little extra insurance against internal flexing. I also took out the rear diff and redone the shimming. I wanted to tighten it up, so instead of 3 (.2mm) shims behind the pinion, I now have 4 there. I also put one between the ring gear and the bearing to move it over just a tad. When I put the diff back together, it spins freely with no pinion play at all. There was some play before.