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DrKnow65
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
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Posts: 998
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Colorado
01.03.2008, 07:44 PM

The 35v caps are to help it run 6S, also I've noticed they do not heat up like the 25v ones, even on 3S.

I'd tap the ubec on the ESC, connector to the battery. This is a more stable voltage since the cap on the power supply at the esc keeps the spikes close to the esc (versus tapping it at the same place as the cap).

There is no original diode on the back of the power board. It's an add on to stop voltage spikes. I would recomend doing the brass on the back side, any additional cooling couldn't be a bad thing.

Extra cap in the reciever is not necessary if you are running 2.4ghz radio but you could always make a jumper for 3rd channel with the cap in it to keep a supply for the transponder if you want.

The "whole" mod will help with temps.

Or you could go overboard like me and put heatsinks on both sides of the power board with pusher/puller fans ;) You just have to put longer buss leads from one board to the other. I also put some scrap aluminum on the usb side of the brain board to cool the fet drivers and the bec the esc still uses to power itself.

Good luck, my best advice is to remove all the plastic wires and preheat the boards in the oven at 250* before attempting to solder or desolder.


If I could only draw what I see in my head, then afford to build it, and finaly get to play with it...
   
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