Quote:
Originally Posted by mustbnitro
-Now the stock MM has 3 330 25V caps, will I gain anything by switching to the 35V caps?
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Like what was said, a little more voltage headroom. You should size a cap to have at least 25% more voltage than what you plan to use. Can't forget that the back-EMF pulses will be higher than the battery voltage too. The only thing you lose with larger voltage caps (assuming you keep the same capacitance) is physical room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustbnitro
-Also, are the stock motor leads (13 AWG) fine with the Feigao and the stock connectors as well?
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Larger wire is always better for less v-drop at high current (less resistance). If you are gonna be pulling higher currents, either direct-solder the wires, or use larger connectors for the same reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustbnitro
-I was checking out that wiring diagram link n the forum, is it best to tap the UBEC off of the ESC or battery connector(ESC side of course). Next, it shows an optional 1000 micro farad cap in the 3rd channel of the rx, I'm running a CC UBEC, is that needed? I don't see how though, also my transponder goes there.
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Not sure it makes much difference since they are the same point electrically. Maybe a little less noise if tapped closer to the battery, but think the difference is negligible IMO.
The 1000uF cap is there to help smoothen out any UBEC switching noise from entering on the power line and to help with the current bursts the servos can pull. Helps to make for a more constant current flow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustbnitro
I am running this in a truggy on 4s with a Feigao 9XL, the only reason I was planning on doing this was to keep temps low on 15 minute mains. My whole goal with the mod was to keep temps LOW. I am going to run dual novak fans I bought as well (they look cool to which is always a plus).
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I personally HATE fans, especially if you are counting on them to keep things cool. They can break, get dirty (which wears the bearings), and just adds wiring complexity. I also hate temps over 130*F, so I always simply add a little more heatsinking, but if gearing is optimal, there shouldn't be excessive heat.