Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

• 10s to 12s version.
  
  
• Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
  
  
• 200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
  
  
• Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
  
  
• Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
  
  
• NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
  
  
• Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
  
  
• Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.
  
  Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.
  
  And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
  
  
• Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.
  
  An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
  
  
• Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
  
  
• Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
  
  
• Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...