Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Actually, I can think of a way to negate the need for any math.
Have an extendable bar that attaches to both plates (to compensate for vehicles of different widths), then have a protractor built into each side. The cross bar would provide the reference point.
And I'm sure adaptors could be created to use on all hub styles/sizes.
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Yeah, that's kinda what I was saying. The vertical plates have an engraved tick mark along the top of them, and the top plate has degree marks on top. If you use a clear material like poly carb or plexi, you can just read the degree marks there.
Like a
hudy setup.
Now not saying you entirly rip off the design, but integy's setup is the same basic thing, as well as others I've seen. Surely a few things can be tweaked to an original design. I would think in the end it could be made for a lot cheaper than $170. Perhaps this is not all you are going for, but to answer the original question, I would rather pay a bit more for a setup that is accurate and easy to use, rather than a cheap one that is frustrating. (don't forget the RPM gauge cost on top of your $20 already..)
The problem I could see is that calc'ing it would: a.) be a PITA b.) and possibly not very accurate due measurement errors c.) not sure it would necc be sysmetrical. Ie, is the l/r toe 2*/2* or is it 1.5*/2.5*? Might be hard to tell w/ just measuring w/ a tape measure.