mmk - i think i might save myself the hassles - and grab the NEW 160/24 controller for cars - it isn't listed on their website yet - but DOES exist - so might be a goer for me i think....i've just received 2 emails back from MGM (who btw replied within the first 24 hours of the first email - replying ON BOXING DAY - and then i sent em another email and they have replied again already - not bad if ya ask me -lol-)
mmmk - scrap above comment - editing half way through posting -lol-
I just also received an email back from Mr Constructor aswell....
SO - now i have a few conflicting theories - i think i had better have another look at it - i possibly have overlooked something hopefully?? I dunno - i will get back to you guys later on - just thought i better update - going rc drifting now, so will look at it later tonight -lol- If i cant get it myself - i might have a go at the new car controller -lol-
btw - thanks everyone for your input!!!!!
Here's the replies etc
***START FIRST EMAIL***
Dear Daniel,
it is no good idea using plane controller in the car. Car/boat controller is
available up to 160A nad 24 cells (on the www is 160A and 16 cells only). It
is no possible use plane controller with pistol Tx with neutral position.
See on attached manual for car/boats ESC possibilities.
Which 160/24 ESC you have? Is it Profi line or Expert ESC? Which SW version
is your 160/24 ESC?
Best regards,
Grisa
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2005 7:43 AM
Subject: 160/24 ESC Programming Troubles!
***FINISH FIRST EMAIL***
***START SECOND EMAIL***
Dear Daniel,
TMM® 16016-3 CAR/BOAT (s)" ESC work only up to 16 cells, really.
Some modelers want car or boat controller up to 24 cell.
Therefore we started production a new ESC TMM® 16024-3 CAR/BOAT which work
up to 24 cells (8 Lipol) - it is no on www (and on the manual) yet. We will
put it on www arround half of January (together with some other news).
Dimensions is the same as 16cell/160A controller ("cube" version is
recomended). It is OPTO version without BEC.
If you have troubles with programming your plane 160/16 ESC Expert by PC,
download actual programm "controller" with actual data from our www. It is
possible you have CD (you buy it together with USBCOM module) with oldest SW
or data version then is need for your ESC.
Best regards,
Grisa
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ""Ing. G. Dvorský""
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: 160/24 ESC Programming Troubles!
***FINISH SECOND EMAIL***
***START MR CONSTRUCTOR***
So let´s come to the problems:
with any radio, fully trim it to neutral, any exponential out, the
trigger has to be 50/50 set, some radios have a very fine sub trim,
check this too.
The second version of beeps is the one you´re into the programming then,
(if this is done by having no throttle, then reverse the channel and
check the fine adjustments too)
I do know from myself that these esc´s tend to locate the neutral point
(even if settled to 50%50) a little in the backward section, this could
be trimmed off later, this might occur on some radios, but it is not a
bog thing, only trim it ba 5% or less and then you have the full neutral
at your mid neutral from the pistol radio.
I do use a pistol radio too, several others do use a pistol too, none of
them having any trouble, it is possible to use these esc´s with a pistol
radio.
The USB drivers have to be isntalled BEFORE the first connection will be
done, install them in the folder you prefer, i ´ll give you a manual
included in this mail, should be helpful.
then the controller needs to be connected to the usb com, then
everything into the pc, read the manual for further details, as some pc
kits might need the esc to be powered with juice from a battery pack and
are not powered from the usb port.
and as for the programming itself here are a few helpful tipps too: (see
attached pic for details)
A: normally leave the settled points, only if everything fails or the
esc isn´t useable on your radio, try to dial it in with these settings.
B: set it to 2 poles and the ratio to 1:1
C: best try to use it in basic mode, if that doesn´t fit fully your
needs go for aircraft mode
D: OK; it should be set to nimh/nicd off course, if ya run lipo and nimh
mixed set up the correct lipo mode (the nimh´s will not get fully empty,
but they´re on the safe side.
E: best: no brake, as the motor will not braked down as the tranny might
cause to fail if the motor will be breaked down too fast, if any break
must be dialed in, go for the softest you could.
F: the accleration is normally set to 0,2 sec (or around in the car
esc´s) so choose between these first values, too hard accleration might
damage the tranny, so try the 0,29 sec. setup first.
G: set it to automatic, this automatic wil be very good but in some
cases the motors will stutter at around 85 % of rpm when throttled to
full rpm, this could be solved when using the timing settings above 15°
H: a good starting point wich is safe for both lipo and nimh will be the
3,1V setting. the others will not empty the battery fully, but in some
times it´ll be better not to fully empty them, so use it as a safety
feature for not draining your batts too much
I: Is useless for us as this point normally will not be shown on the
opto esc´s
hopefully there are a few things cleared up.
a word on the programming: if you´ve entered it, the time between the
settings is unlimited !! and EACH setting will be done once, then wait
for the corresponding beeps that the esc has the right setting, then
it´ll go to the next point, the setting has nothing in common to many
other esc, they need to be pushed till throttle after having reached the
certain amount of beeps or similar, this setting is stressless, you
could easily wait and setup all paramaters you like, but best is when
you use the small table with all the para´meters shown, you could follow
the setup better and could mark up the settings you made !!
Good Luck.
Greetings from Hamburg and a happy new year !!
***END MR CONSTRUCTOR***