Thanks Brian! That helps ALOT.
I tested it like you said, and figured it out.
I looked EXTREMELY close, and actually, the C1 (labeled C1 since the blanks are labeled C2, NO2, NC2) is closest to the cathode side for the LED.
What ohm resister will I need for a white LED?
And last question, how would you wire it up to have the LED on only when the switch is on? It doesn't seem to light up regardless using the C1 and NO1 or NC2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BP-Revo
Hmm, I think I'm better off asking this here than on the car forum I'm on, given with you two (squee and Brian) I have an electronics expert and a car guy in the same spot.
Anyway, I have HID headlights on my car, and a standard dual filament halogen bulb that takes care of fog lights/high beams (I'm talking about my G35, FYI). I want to get an HID kit to replace the fog/high beam light, and I was planning to run a "wiring harness" (I'm pretty sure it's a relay). Do you know if the bulbs will have flickering issues?
Sorry for the the threadjack squee...
I think Brian is right about the switch. They probably did that so you can choose whether the LED has power when the switch is on or if it is off.
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No problem on the threadjack man.
As for the HID's, what kind of bulb is it? There aren't to many dual filaments that I can think off. H4 being one of them.