Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeforever
Thanks Brian! That helps ALOT.
I tested it like you said, and figured it out. 
I looked EXTREMELY close, and actually, the C1 (labeled C1 since the blanks are labeled C2, NO2, NC2) is closest to the cathode side for the LED.
What ohm resister will I need for a white LED?
And last question, how would you wire it up to have the LED on only when the switch is on? It doesn't seem to light up regardless using the C1 and NO1 or NC2.
No problem on the threadjack man.
As for the HID's, what kind of bulb is it? There aren't to many dual filaments that I can think off. H4 being one of them.
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It's an H4 bulb for the Fog/High's. The factory low beam is a D2R (but obviously that'll stay as is).
From what I could find on my research, it's a single filament bulb and switching from low to high (in my case, fog to high) just adjusts a metal shield that alters the beam output. (I'm speaking of the HID's - obvious the stock halogen bulb is dual filament).
I just always read of people having issues with HID's flickering and not turning on and what not, and was wondering if having a relay would prevent this? I'm assuming it would since it would allow direct power draw from the battery, and therefore would not be limited to the power provided by the factory harness.
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM