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mistercrash · 09:43 AM

jpoprock,

I'm going to have to check this forum out. Thanks for the link.

A few pics of what I've been doing. I made temporary plates out of Plexi, the top plate and the front skid plate. Being transparent, it makes it easier to see where to put everything and how well it works. Three things had to be trimmed a bit from the XXL components. The plastic ring that snaps on the chassis and in which the output of the diff slips into. It had to be trimmed on either side because the ball ends of the turnbuckles hit it preventing full steering throw. The front corners of the top plate have small notches done also to keep the turnbuckles' ball ends to hit it on the suspension's full compression. Last was the chassis rails, they had to be trimmed very slightly to allow the bellcranks to move freely.

The Muggy steering assembly had to be trimmed a bit also. The posts are now 40.5 mm high. Both the bellcranks had to be trimmed to fit the shorter posts. This means shorten them and bore the hole that houses the bushing a little deeper.

I fabricated one extra part which is the extra front skid plate that holds the bottom of the steering assembly. By going with two skid plates I was able to fit the steering without trimming off too much of it. So the stock skid plate will act as a shim basically and the extra one will hold the steering.

The steering posts are placed on the chassis 48.3 mm apart. I used a turnbuckle to join them together because I wanted to have something adjustable there. I didn't know what the length of this turnbuckle should be to achieve a good ackerman so it made it easy to play around with the length to get to the ackerman I think is acceptable. The turnbuckle ended up being 47.5 mm long from the center of the screws.

There's one thing that bugs me about this set up and that's the middle shaft going to the tranny. I don't know if the part of the bellcrank that attaches to the servo's turnbuckle will hit the shaft. It depends on how far the shaft will dip down to meet the tranny. If it dips down enough, it should be fine but if it ends up being parallel to the chassis top plate then I'll have to trim the bellcrank.

All in all, it looks like it's going to work very well but it was a lot of work to make fit. Just a little cutting and grinding but on many parts. Enough talking, here's the pics. Input is welcomed as usual.

	(#68)
mistercrash Guelph, Canada, eh! Offline Posts: 1,083 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada	04.30.2010, 09:35 AM jpoprock, I'm going to have to check this forum out. Thanks for the link. A few pics of what I've been doing. I made temporary plates out of Plexi, the top plate and the front skid plate. Being transparent, it makes it easier to see where to put everything and how well it works. Three things had to be trimmed a bit from the XXL components. The plastic ring that snaps on the chassis and in which the output of the diff slips into. It had to be trimmed on either side because the ball ends of the turnbuckles hit it preventing full steering throw. The front corners of the top plate have small notches done also to keep the turnbuckles' ball ends to hit it on the suspension's full compression. Last was the chassis rails, they had to be trimmed very slightly to allow the bellcranks to move freely. The Muggy steering assembly had to be trimmed a bit also. The posts are now 40.5 mm high. Both the bellcranks had to be trimmed to fit the shorter posts. This means shorten them and bore the hole that houses the bushing a little deeper. I fabricated one extra part which is the extra front skid plate that holds the bottom of the steering assembly. By going with two skid plates I was able to fit the steering without trimming off too much of it. So the stock skid plate will act as a shim basically and the extra one will hold the steering. The steering posts are placed on the chassis 48.3 mm apart. I used a turnbuckle to join them together because I wanted to have something adjustable there. I didn't know what the length of this turnbuckle should be to achieve a good ackerman so it made it easy to play around with the length to get to the ackerman I think is acceptable. The turnbuckle ended up being 47.5 mm long from the center of the screws. There's one thing that bugs me about this set up and that's the middle shaft going to the tranny. I don't know if the part of the bellcrank that attaches to the servo's turnbuckle will hit the shaft. It depends on how far the shaft will dip down to meet the tranny. If it dips down enough, it should be fine but if it ends up being parallel to the chassis top plate then I'll have to trim the bellcrank. All in all, it looks like it's going to work very well but it was a lot of work to make fit. Just a little cutting and grinding but on many parts. Enough talking, here's the pics. Input is welcomed as usual. No brain, no headaches. Last edited by mistercrash; 04.30.2010 at 09:43 AM.