So yesterdays work on the truck was not without my standard group of issues, and then karma threw in a few more.
It began with me looking over the truck and noticing that something just wasn't right - I finally narrowed it down: Anyone see the problem?
So I tore it back down, fixed that issue and moved on to the front where I still had to install the "new" Airtronics high torque servo. Had to cut out some of the servo box to get it to fit in (the wires were riding hard on the front side of the compartment). Then had to spend an hour digging through all my stuff for an Airtronics servo horn - finally found a Revo horn to fit. Flash forward to my test run - the Revo horn is about 1/4" shorter in length than the stock one was, and the turnbuckle that attachs to it is not adjustable. What affect should this have on my steering? I think its slower, and not as much throw.
BTW, here is crummy pic of the clearances i had to make to the FLM bulks and HPI sway bar kit on the front. 1) Had to remove most of the top of the hinge pin area. 2) Had to chamfer the "ears" that stick out the side of the FLM bulkhead (not sure what they are for - the stock HPI bulks have them too), and 3) had to drill/tap mounting holes for the sway bar cover.
Now, back to my test run. First try, hit the throttle a little, and had lots of tire spin, but ZERO movement! DOH!!!!
Freakin rookie move on my part not checking the diffs. Sat and looked at it for a time, trying to decide which end I felt like tearing apart this time. Decided to do the rear, as it would take less work. Well, come to find out that HPI has this little tiny tab in the diff case to keep you from putting the diff in backwards. So I grabbed a flat edge screw driver, and immediately had a custom HPI diff case!
Picked up a "sale" proline chebbie body for it and a Team Assosicated SC10 body. Got 'em in the paint booth now!