View Single Post
Old
  (#6)
J57ltr
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
Offline
Posts: 610
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tomball/ Houston Tx.
02.15.2011, 01:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
Made a cvd tonight out of and lst1 driveshaft. Cut the center out and made a cvd shaft 70mm long fron the center of the ball end to the center of the drivepin on the bone end. Fits nicely, could have gone up to 72mm before it would bind in the cup at full up travel. Welded together with a mig, this stuff is hard, but when I got it hot the metal welded very well.

Well, I think the rear shocks need 1/4" or so of fuel tubing to limit the up travel. Right now the suspension can go up enough to get the cvd in a bind at the drive cup. So I will do that before running it again.

I also put revo outputs in the pede 4x4 diff, so I could use 6mm bore drivecups from a revo. Straight drop in mod. I did notice the diffs are not the newest revo spec units with the center support. They are the older original revo diffs. Not likely to be an issue, but there is upgrade potential there.

And before anyone asks, I doubt I can fit a lst diff in there!!!

Just waiting on the 12mm endmill, so I can properly mod the other hub. Then I will check that side and make another driveshaft. I have a feeling I will have the inner bearing seated in a bit more so the cvd shaft may end up longer. Not a problem, as the current parts are prototypes and can be modded if necessary.
I guesss I should have mentioned I have a mill too. Lol Sounds like you got it together, but if you need anything welded or fabbed let me know. I have been watching your build since I am buying one of those rollers too and was worried about the drive system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSP View Post
Very nice weld J57, I have seen a lot of stainless welds in my career and that is top notch for sure.

What grade stainless is that?
Thanks for the compliment. That material was 316 and was used as a stand for an enclosure we made for a company that makes turkey bacon. I actually had to make 16 of them. They have been in for 2 years now and even with the caustic cleaning solution they still look brand new.

The material is finished before it's welded. Raw SST is really rough and it takes a bit of grinding to get it to put that brushed and polished finish on it.

We use a tool called a Dynisher (it's basically a 7" bench grinder with the head rotated 90, and an inflatable bladder, like a slick, then you put a short sanding belt, then finish with a scotchbrite belt). You might have seen one before.

Jeff


The Warnings & Cautions discussed in this manual cant cover all possible conditions/situations. It must be understood that common sense and caution are factors which cant be built into this product.
   
Reply With Quote