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RokleM · 05.18.2013, 02:28 PM

Yeaaahhhh, finally got my account activated :D

I'm driving vehicle 3 (FVL3).

There is a ton of info on the UE thread, but here's some final info as the vehicle heads into production that I posted.

Possible final post here until I start the "refresh" with production parts once they arrive. This is my best effort for a summary post of everything. The final test of these vehicles will hopefully be next weekend at a big race at our local track. We're hoping to have enough for a full blown truggy heat.

Overall, ecstatic with the way the truck, truggy, whatever you want to call it drives. Even though my 1/8 e-buggy is very new and I'm still playing, lap times are within 1-1.5 seconds which really says something. I can throw a vehicle nearly 2.5 lbs heavier, probably 2-3" higher on center of gravity, and almost 5" wider around the same track with only a 5-6% difference in speed. That is engineering my friends.

Electronics:
1) Battery of choice is absolutely the Orion 3s 4600 90c's. They come in at only 350g vs nearly 600g for similar packs from other vendors. They have a massive punch and can easily do a 15 minute main with the nitro truggies if I chose too.
2) ESC/motor I'm kind of torn. The 1350 T8 is a beast and runs pretty cool considering what I'm throwing at it. I wouldn't say tekin has been a bad experience, but I also expected more. Having to use my laptop to really tweak the settings, needing to use a BEC since the RX8 (v1) only puts out a measly 5.5v, cost in comparison to others is high, etc leads me to think that if I did it again I would explore other alternatives. It is smooth, it does have power, but I have to wonder if some of the other options would have packed more punch for the dollar. V2 of the RX8 is out now, so that may be a game changer.
3) Servo, 7955TG and crank it to 7.5-8v. Explore no other options, do not pass go do not collect $200, I would say it is impossible to beat the speed, torque, and cost for this situation.

Drivetrain:
1) Front diff, I've had the best luck with 10k weight.
2) Center diff is a cheapo mugen diff (MBX6TR/MBX6), 20-30k weight seems to work well. In my opinion, keep it a little light to keep the power to the front wheels. We're dealing with an absolute ton of power and you absolutely have to keep those front wheels planted to maintain perfect control.
3) Rear diff, 3k works well.
4) Gearing, I've found a 12/46 puts down more power on a small/medium (100-140' track) than is almost manageable. A very big track, going up to 13t would be possible.

Setup:
1) Weight slightly forward of center works well for my driving style, keeping the front wheels dug in on the corners but still enough weight in the rear to keep it mostly planted.
2) Front setup, high impact front arms take a MAJOR beating. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, no preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, middle row second to top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length (easiest is to unscrew bottom shock and have it at full length while adjusting the limiters). CVD's should be right about level when dropped from about a foot. Wheels straight or possible .5 degree out, 1 degree camber to start.
3) Rear setup, standard racerx arms (not setbacks) on mine. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, 3mm preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, outside row top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length. CVD's at a slight upward angle. Wheels at 1-2 degree in, 1-2 degree camber.
4) Highly recommend titanium skids, and even they tweak a bit when going full stop on a jump. 6mm UE cvd's do indeed work just fine, even with the amount of power we're throwing around. Would 8mm be better, of course, but 6mm will absolutely work.

Misc:
1) Servo arm locations and links are a bit tricky, but we'll see how the final build is as the chassis has been changed slightly. I've found the small traxxas rod ends work well (with a bit of trimming and slight bending of the link so it doesn't hit the front driveshaft). I will also explore ball/cup style on the final build (like 1/10th scale turnbuckle) which will give a bit more clearance.
2) Electronic placement. MM likes most of his components up front. I preferred my receiver in the back with most of the rest of the hardware up front. Final build, there is a ton of room inside the back of the chassis and unless you're playing in ton of loose dirt, a very small amount actually accumulates there. I plan to mount most of my electronics (BEC, transponder, receiver) there on the final build with only the ESC up front by the motor.

It's been a privilege to do my best to break this thing over the last few months and those of you that have per-ordered will be REAAAAAALY happy with what you receive.

	(#9)
RokleM RC-Monster Stock Offline Posts: 10 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Greenville, SC	05.18.2013, 02:28 PM Yeaaahhhh, finally got my account activated :D I'm driving vehicle 3 (FVL3). There is a ton of info on the UE thread, but here's some final info as the vehicle heads into production that I posted. Possible final post here until I start the "refresh" with production parts once they arrive. This is my best effort for a summary post of everything. The final test of these vehicles will hopefully be next weekend at a big race at our local track. We're hoping to have enough for a full blown truggy heat. Overall, ecstatic with the way the truck, truggy, whatever you want to call it drives. Even though my 1/8 e-buggy is very new and I'm still playing, lap times are within 1-1.5 seconds which really says something. I can throw a vehicle nearly 2.5 lbs heavier, probably 2-3" higher on center of gravity, and almost 5" wider around the same track with only a 5-6% difference in speed. That is engineering my friends. Electronics: 1) Battery of choice is absolutely the Orion 3s 4600 90c's. They come in at only 350g vs nearly 600g for similar packs from other vendors. They have a massive punch and can easily do a 15 minute main with the nitro truggies if I chose too. 2) ESC/motor I'm kind of torn. The 1350 T8 is a beast and runs pretty cool considering what I'm throwing at it. I wouldn't say tekin has been a bad experience, but I also expected more. Having to use my laptop to really tweak the settings, needing to use a BEC since the RX8 (v1) only puts out a measly 5.5v, cost in comparison to others is high, etc leads me to think that if I did it again I would explore other alternatives. It is smooth, it does have power, but I have to wonder if some of the other options would have packed more punch for the dollar. V2 of the RX8 is out now, so that may be a game changer. 3) Servo, 7955TG and crank it to 7.5-8v. Explore no other options, do not pass go do not collect $200, I would say it is impossible to beat the speed, torque, and cost for this situation. Drivetrain: 1) Front diff, I've had the best luck with 10k weight. 2) Center diff is a cheapo mugen diff (MBX6TR/MBX6), 20-30k weight seems to work well. In my opinion, keep it a little light to keep the power to the front wheels. We're dealing with an absolute ton of power and you absolutely have to keep those front wheels planted to maintain perfect control. 3) Rear diff, 3k works well. 4) Gearing, I've found a 12/46 puts down more power on a small/medium (100-140' track) than is almost manageable. A very big track, going up to 13t would be possible. Setup: 1) Weight slightly forward of center works well for my driving style, keeping the front wheels dug in on the corners but still enough weight in the rear to keep it mostly planted. 2) Front setup, high impact front arms take a MAJOR beating. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, no preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, middle row second to top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length (easiest is to unscrew bottom shock and have it at full length while adjusting the limiters). CVD's should be right about level when dropped from about a foot. Wheels straight or possible .5 degree out, 1 degree camber to start. 3) Rear setup, standard racerx arms (not setbacks) on mine. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, 3mm preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, outside row top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length. CVD's at a slight upward angle. Wheels at 1-2 degree in, 1-2 degree camber. 4) Highly recommend titanium skids, and even they tweak a bit when going full stop on a jump. 6mm UE cvd's do indeed work just fine, even with the amount of power we're throwing around. Would 8mm be better, of course, but 6mm will absolutely work. Misc: 1) Servo arm locations and links are a bit tricky, but we'll see how the final build is as the chassis has been changed slightly. I've found the small traxxas rod ends work well (with a bit of trimming and slight bending of the link so it doesn't hit the front driveshaft). I will also explore ball/cup style on the final build (like 1/10th scale turnbuckle) which will give a bit more clearance. 2) Electronic placement. MM likes most of his components up front. I preferred my receiver in the back with most of the rest of the hardware up front. Final build, there is a ton of room inside the back of the chassis and unless you're playing in ton of loose dirt, a very small amount actually accumulates there. I plan to mount most of my electronics (BEC, transponder, receiver) there on the final build with only the ESC up front by the motor. It's been a privilege to do my best to break this thing over the last few months and those of you that have per-ordered will be REAAAAAALY happy with what you receive.