Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Gotta be careful though. High efficiency doesn't necessarily mean hi-quality. Too-high numbers generally means poor suspension control which produces loose muddy bass.
I wouldn't quibble about sensitivity numbers, just make sure whatever driver you choose is in the proper size box. Proper box is the key! I personally prefer ported when done right; has more output at lower frequencies but response drops off fast (24db/oct) for tones lower than the port frequency. Subsonic eq is recommended. I've heard what people think of as crappy drivers sound very good. I've always pushed much more power than a sub is rated (usually around double) as long as it is clean (no clipping) and not listening to something like 20Hz tones all day.
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I guess it is just personal preference as I have always liked how a small sealed box sounds. A box like that does require a very good sub that is small box optimized, and plenty of power. When I did the box for m last audio car I ran 3 kicker l7 12
" square subs, and the box was built so that each sub had an individual enclosure that was exactly the same size as the speaker footprint and had around .8 cubic foot airspace. I angled the front wall to break up standing waves as well. The speaker response was very good, fast beats did not get muddy and the output was really good, with plenty of low extension. I did make a tubular mteal cage to mount the box, that helped to strengthen the box. My first design was made with thinner mdf, and the front wall blew off. Thicker material, construction adhesive and longer screws cured that problem with the 2nd design, plus I did a double front wall for mounting strength.