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steve050773 · 06.05.2006, 09:01 AM

I don't have a switch. I probably should, but I thought it would just add more wiring to the confusion.

One of my initial thoughts regarding the ubec was the quality of my soldering on those tiny wires. I had a less than a fun time getting them soldered on to the deans tabs with the other, fatter wires. But since I have the same problem without the UBEC in place, I'm assuming that wasn't the issue.

The controller and the motor connection is what I'm starting to think is problematic. The controller sits on the chassis, attached with industrial velcro, right behind the front shock tower and perpendicular to the drive line. Its just barely out from underneath the motor. I will experiment with some alternative locations on the controller.

The other area I'm not sure about is the motor to controller. If you've ever seen an uninstalled 1940 7 turn hi amp, the back of the motor has three separate solid strands of copper winding coming out of it about a half inch or so. No preinstalled plugs. For flexibilty, I soldered on some 3.5mm plugs onto the ends of these wires and heat shrinked the plug and the exposed wire. Then I soldered plugs onto the controller and made the connections. I found over time that one or two of the 3.5mm plugs seemed a little loose, so I used some electrical tape to try better hold the plugs together.

I guess this was a long way of saying I think this motor was designed to be direct wired. Do you guys think, given my problem, that it might be worth undoing my motor connections and direct soldering?

	(#8)
steve050773 RC-Monster Carbon Fiber Offline Posts: 130 Join Date: Sep 2005	06.05.2006, 09:01 AM I don't have a switch. I probably should, but I thought it would just add more wiring to the confusion. One of my initial thoughts regarding the ubec was the quality of my soldering on those tiny wires. I had a less than a fun time getting them soldered on to the deans tabs with the other, fatter wires. But since I have the same problem without the UBEC in place, I'm assuming that wasn't the issue. The controller and the motor connection is what I'm starting to think is problematic. The controller sits on the chassis, attached with industrial velcro, right behind the front shock tower and perpendicular to the drive line. Its just barely out from underneath the motor. I will experiment with some alternative locations on the controller. The other area I'm not sure about is the motor to controller. If you've ever seen an uninstalled 1940 7 turn hi amp, the back of the motor has three separate solid strands of copper winding coming out of it about a half inch or so. No preinstalled plugs. For flexibilty, I soldered on some 3.5mm plugs onto the ends of these wires and heat shrinked the plug and the exposed wire. Then I soldered plugs onto the controller and made the connections. I found over time that one or two of the 3.5mm plugs seemed a little loose, so I used some electrical tape to try better hold the plugs together. I guess this was a long way of saying I think this motor was designed to be direct wired. Do you guys think, given my problem, that it might be worth undoing my motor connections and direct soldering?