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Finnster · 08.29.2006, 01:10 PM

I know the price on the electronics is a hard first hit. I bought a almost new 2.5r w/ new motor for $280. Thats the price of a Q125 alone.:007:
The roller was ~$100 stripped down.

However, being cheap sometimes doesn't pay off. I learned this through my recent build trying to get a used 9920. I didn't pay much ofr it, but it didn't work, and I had to go out and spend more just to get back to where I was.

The Superduty is ~$140. The titans are prob ~$30ea. That already $200+ and God knows if it will even work, and will surely work poorer than a brushless. What if they do burn up? Then you will have to go and spend more in the end to get what you originally wanted. The brushless needs nearly 0 maintenance, and won't wear out. If you get a decent setup to begin with you will end up spending far less in the end.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the 9920s. To many things to easily break off and a bit unsophisticated in operation/programming. I think their time has past in the quickly evolving brushless market, and they don't run the 4 pole Neu motors, but they are a economical alternative to the Q125s. Having to send to Germany and wait for 6mos for repair also sux. At least the Novak will be cheap and easy to repair, and will always have good resale value on ebay. If you do go out with nitros alot, its not going to be fun to show off an electric conversion that is slow, heavy and cluttered and watching them fly past you (assuming they get their engines started... :) )

If you do keep the brushed, you may have to keep both gears, it just doesn't have the same amt of low end power as brushless. I know on my emaxx the brushed motors needed 1st for alot of things else runtime really dropped and the motors ran hotter. Then you've got to figure out a shifter servo..

If you did want to do just second gear, just remove the top input gear's roll pin and take the gear off. Don't put in the idler, but leave the pin for that. You have to leave in the drive gear or figure out a spacer. I just left mine in. Its on bearings and will spin freely, so doesn't add much rotational mass. Lastly lock the 2nd gear drive gear to the dog gear via bolts or epoxy (obvious when you open the tranny how this works.) In the end my maxx tranny w/ steel idler was same weight as stock revo tranny (inc mount plate.)

	(#5)
Finnster KillaHurtz Offline Posts: 2,958 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Bucks Co, PA	08.29.2006, 01:10 PM I know the price on the electronics is a hard first hit. I bought a almost new 2.5r w/ new motor for $280. Thats the price of a Q125 alone.:007: The roller was ~$100 stripped down. However, being cheap sometimes doesn't pay off. I learned this through my recent build trying to get a used 9920. I didn't pay much ofr it, but it didn't work, and I had to go out and spend more just to get back to where I was. The Superduty is ~$140. The titans are prob ~$30ea. That already $200+ and God knows if it will even work, and will surely work poorer than a brushless. What if they do burn up? Then you will have to go and spend more in the end to get what you originally wanted. The brushless needs nearly 0 maintenance, and won't wear out. If you get a decent setup to begin with you will end up spending far less in the end. Personally, I'm not a big fan of the 9920s. To many things to easily break off and a bit unsophisticated in operation/programming. I think their time has past in the quickly evolving brushless market, and they don't run the 4 pole Neu motors, but they are a economical alternative to the Q125s. Having to send to Germany and wait for 6mos for repair also sux. At least the Novak will be cheap and easy to repair, and will always have good resale value on ebay. If you do go out with nitros alot, its not going to be fun to show off an electric conversion that is slow, heavy and cluttered and watching them fly past you (assuming they get their engines started... :) ) If you do keep the brushed, you may have to keep both gears, it just doesn't have the same amt of low end power as brushless. I know on my emaxx the brushed motors needed 1st for alot of things else runtime really dropped and the motors ran hotter. Then you've got to figure out a shifter servo.. If you did want to do just second gear, just remove the top input gear's roll pin and take the gear off. Don't put in the idler, but leave the pin for that. You have to leave in the drive gear or figure out a spacer. I just left mine in. Its on bearings and will spin freely, so doesn't add much rotational mass. Lastly lock the 2nd gear drive gear to the dog gear via bolts or epoxy (obvious when you open the tranny how this works.) In the end my maxx tranny w/ steel idler was same weight as stock revo tranny (inc mount plate.)