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MetalMan
RC-Monster Mod
 
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SoCal
11.27.2006, 12:07 AM

Those RPM arms you listed are for the Nitro Rustler, and are shorter than the stock arms, which would worsen the handling. RPM is now making arms for the electric Rustler, so look for those.

Instead of the aluminum idler, get the steel idler gear that is sold at the store here. The teeth on it won't get sharp over time like the teeth on the aluminum idler do. When the teeth get sharp, it will make the diff more likely to strip.

Good choice on the charger :).

Don't get the Duratrax bearing set. It includes 5x8mm bearings for the wheels, which aren't used when you have the RPM bearing carriers. You only need four 5x8mm bearings for the steering bellcrank (well, you don't need them, but they will make the steering a little bit smoother/less sloppy).

Hold onto the stock chassis for a while. You can shave down certain areas to reduce weight without decreasing strength.

CVDs aren't necessary. Run those steel yokes and get the steel Street Sport axles, and run the stock slider shafts. This would be less expensive than CVDs, and a lot less maintenance. And they will allow for full suspension travel unlikeCVDs. Personally, I run a dogbone setup using HPI Nitro MT parts. It's strong, and low (if any) maintenance.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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