Vendetta ST upgrade questions

[kulangflow]

So, I searched this forum and a few others, but I couldn't quite find what I am looking for.

It is evident that I need CVDs and ball-diffs for my Vendetta ST. Which ones have you had the most success with? (Which ones would you recommend or stay away from?)

CVDs

GPM - Duratrax Vendetta buggy heavy duty steel swing shaft cvds by GPM. Includes two harded steel cvds. - SMB4241C - 10.99
Atomic - Duratrax Vendetta ST Truggy MB4 heavy duty 7075 aluminum Swing shafts CVDs for either Front or Rear. Includes 1 pair - MBT002 - 21.99
Atomic - Duratrax Vendetta MB4 heavy duty Swing shafts CVDs for either Front or Rear. Includes 1 pair - BM001 - 11.99
Duratrax - This is the optional Threaded Steel CV Driveshaft Set for the Duratrax Vendetta, includes outdrives - DTXC7294 - 37.99

Ball Diffs

Atomic - Duratrax Vendetta buggy or ST & MB4 Carbon Steel high Precision Ball Diff Differential - MB002 - 21.99
Duratrax - Complete Ball Differential for the Duratrax Vendetta. Metal construction with plastic gear - DTXC7348 - 24.99

Also, is there a recommended adapter for using RC18 wheels with any of the aforementioned CVDs? My stock tires are bald. I have a plethora of RC18 wheels and tires to use, so I'd like to take advantage of them if possible.

Related question: What happened to one18th.com?

Thanks for any and all suggestions you have!

[skellyo]

I'd go with the DTX CVD's and Diffs if it were me. They're a little more expensive, but the threaded stud on the CVD's looks much better than using a screw.

[wallot]

DTX all the way. I would stay away from GPM.
My Vendetta (LRP SHARK) after about 15 racing days has steel CVDs like new without any signs of wear.

dont forget that buggy CVDs are Shorter and do not fit truggy

Someone here says if you'll shim the stock gear diffs (under brg on the ring gear side) - they will do fine - he says they're holding under to the Neu he's running and thats says a lot!

I've been running a 'Detta buggy for a few yrs and just acquired a ST. It came with rear steel cvds and I'm guessing they're atomics - permax480/Pro car 33 with gear diffs - fine so far, will be shimming diffs when I get a chance.

My buggy has the dtx ball diffs - I had the stock gear diffs go out after about 18months - rear then the front about week later. Ball diffs have been fine so far - been running a GH4700 almost since day 1, soon to be Permax 480 with mamba 25 or a Pro car 33. I'm still using somewhat stock cvds - the pin CA'ed in with 3mm stud inserted thru the outbaord part of the cvd so I can use 3mm nuts for the wheels - guess its stronger that way - never had a prob. This was a one18th.com mod to get rid of those stupid wheel screws!

I don't think the threaded dtx steel cvds are worth the extra $$ when you can cut a 2.6mm bolt an red loctite it into the atomics and run axle nuts. I bought a set of dtx alum cvds early - they're the worst thing I've ever bought in rc - they bind with the smallest bit of dirt and bend way easy. Been told they've been improved, but I'll not buy dtx cvds ever again.

Occasionally TH will put the balls diffs on sale - I bought mine at 1/2 off. If these are atomics on the ST I bought used, they seem well worth teh money - they're what I would try if I needed too.

Don't have a clue about wheel adapters, but seems lik ethere should be something out there. Maybe some rRC18 owners will have soe advice.

0ne18th.com - Mike (Graphix) sold the site to Megatech and they let him run it a few months without paying any bills - seems they had some expectation Mike was going to push their products and if you know the site, that didn't happen. Products stood on their own, good or bad. Bills piled up unpaid, site's been shutdown which is a shame, was a great source of info and help. Some of the guys went to rctech.net and post in the mini thread. Some rumors indicate Mike's working to create another site, but there is all kinds of legal probs, not sure it'll ever happen.

Originally Posted by skellyo

I'd go with the DTX CVD's and Diffs if it were me. They're a little more expensive, but the threaded stud on the CVD's looks much better than using a screw.

Axle nuts only way to go - get some long theaded 2.6mm (can't find studs that small) and cut head off. IIRC, need about 7mm sticking out beyond the hex so when the nut is tightened down, it has 1 - 2 threads beyong the nylock part. DTX sells the 2.6mm nylocs - the PB kit uses them.

I did 3mm on the buggy with the plastic cvds, but you can't do that with the steel - just not enough meat in the steel cvds outboard piece to drill out for 3mm.

[kulangflow]

I've ordered a set of the DTX threaded CVDs. I'll hold off on the diffs for now because mine are still fine so far.

As for tires, the ones on my RS4 Pro2 fit, so I'll give them a shot.

Thanks for your help!