Hyper 8.5 pro build

[tc3_racer_001]

hey guys! time for me to show you my plan... any help WILL be appreciated...

ingredients:

parts of a pro kit, got the kit 1/2 price after we removed all the useless stuff (which shouldnt have been there in the first place!!) off it.

a neu 1512 2D Smooth can from castle

a mamba monster (when it comes...)

some proline knuckles

a hitec 5955tg digital servo

a 310 FM reciever for my radio

a hyper motor mount

2x 4600mah a123 racing packs (13.2v nominal)

ccbec if needed

a kyosho plastic spur

some gaskets

diff oil

shock oil

some 16mm springs

lastly some 8.5mm bullet connectors (cost the same as 1 lot of castle ones, for 20 of them so i figured why not!!)

and a big mixing bowl :)
















ok, now for the problems!

1. the hyper mount doesnt fit... i have to remove the bottom plate thingy which leaves me with the problem of having to shim up the huge chassis brace as well as the other side of the diff housing thing...

2. the plastic spur needs shims, its like a locked diff at the moment!!

3. my esc and motor have to arrive yet


4. need to make a holder for my 600g batteries... unless i can get them on opposite sides, which is unikely, as the motor is in the way


5. the body is designed to fit an rc8... which means the guards protrude about 22mm each side!!! if i can, im going to make a battery mount and guard out of either acrylic sheet (cause its available) or aluminium which is heavy and harder to work with and will bend i think... and id have to buy it.


6. the servo needs a screw which i cannot find, i think it needs a 2.8x 8 but any ideas???

7. im running out of money haha.


so any suggestions would be much appreciated


Ryan :)

and i know:

[MetalMan]

1. Can you elaborate on this "bottom plate thingy"?

2. Pull the diff apart, and remove any shims already in it. If you've done that already, you may need to grind that circular raised section on the inner part of the Kyosho spur gear. Looking at the stock steel spur you'll notice that raised section isn't on there.

3. Good choice on electronics!

4. That's going to be a pain mounting 4s2p A123... I can imagine the left-right balance might be thrown off because of the weight.

5. Acrylic might not work so well, because it shatters easily. Thin-walled aluminum should work well and not weigh too much (check out BrianG's Hyper 8 to see the battery tray design he uses).

6. Usually that screw is a 2.5 or 2.6mm thread, and about 8mm long.

7. Gotta love that.

[tc3_racer_001]

thanks metal man, for some reason it doesnt send me emails any more when im subscribed... weird!

ok, here is a picture of the mount, i apologise for the quality, but ill take some better ones when i get the camera back.


it is an easy fix, i will add spacers or something to the chassis mount, it rests there fine at the moment but may as well support it. removing the plate allows direct mounting onto chassis like its supposed to, but then i need to either: get another mount exactly the same height made (wonder if mike could do this for me :) ) with the bearing cutout, which would be more exact (i think) than a plastic one anyway, look cooler too. then the cf brace would fit fine.
ok, i have seen briang's build (which is why i got the mount... silly me, forgot about the cnced part)


2. do i remove all of them, including the ones for the smaller gears which sit in the middle (note, i got a regular, non spider diff so i could mount it on. i thought this issue was simply fixed with a paper shim listed here on tower hobbies. will this shim solve my problems, otherwise it may just be easier to keep the metal spur (which i dont really want to, its extra weight and 1/2 the mesh thickness!!)

3. thanks, would have gone for a feigao or similar, but decided to spend the extra cash and get this motor. i really do hope it doesnt overheat!! (i will be annoyed to say the least!!)

4. i will tape them together (or similar) then mount as a 55x55mm brick. 600g is a lot of weight, but how heavy are peoples 6s lipos?


6. ok, so what would the screw be listed under? 2.6 thread, 2.8x8mm? its a simple parts just cannot find it anywhere (cause i dont know what im looking at!)
7. yeah school sucks.


problem with me, is that the motor mount isnt up and down like briang's... which makes it impossible to mount the batteries on either sode. as this will be mainly a basher and a "just for fun" racer (cant earn any points cause i gotta run with the nitros... least there i can race with the C class first!!)

i do like how he has made his battery trays and i might copy the design, but to hold 2x the weight, we will see... at school i have a mill (useless as we cant find the bits and its 50years old, works though, no one knows how to use it properly... also a sheet metal bender and an oxytorch to heat stuff up on.

i dont have access to a dremel nor funds to buy one! (literally only got $90 left)

really i just want to show the guys at the track (or rather try!) that electric can be compeditive and an average 16yo can build it (wont tell them that everyone here helped :D) then slowly (hopefully) they will join our side, and i wont have to wear ear protection every time i go to the track!! bloody nitro engines reving their guts out trying to get them going well.

ryan :)

[tc3_racer_001]

I have used random bearings to just prop it up, what woulkd be the easiest way to tell if it was level/balanced? measuring the depth accurately of the cut out it near impossible, cant get a ruler in there, and i dont think my digital calipers would work either...




here you can see the plate ive removed:

[MetalMan]

For the servo screw, something like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE017&P=7

I think the easiest way to figure out if the center diff is straight is to spin it, and whichever combination of washers allow it to spin the longest will be the ones to go with. Otherwise, you might just need to eyeball it.

2. Just play around with shims vs. no shims, to try to get the best combination. Basically, you want the gears to be as tightly packed as possibly, but without any binding.

3. Geared properly, it won't overheat (assuming it's not defective).

4. Most people don't run more than 6s in buggies, because 4s is plenty. But just to give you an idea, my 4s 4800mah weighs about 500grams. I guess 600grams isn't that bad.

[tc3_racer_001]

thanks. ive got a question. what is the hyper 9.5?
tower stocks all their parts but to me its pretty close to an 8.5?

also, are these the right gasket thingys?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCWN2&P=7

and they recon that these bearings (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTNY4&P=7) have 1/3 less friction than the stockers. would it be a worthwhile upgrade, or is it a waste of money? 1/3 seems quite a bit though, and my car (somereason) is far from smooth...


is it normal for the CD bearings to not spin much/for long? like they dont seem to spin much but are smooth (and new), just seemed strange, like the oil was too thick or something in the bearings...

also, ive just found this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEN5&P=7

is that what im after, sometimes i just wish i could see it infront of me before buying them! o well...
emailed mike, it would be awesome to have another side of the mount, which would match and provide extra support, but would the machining be accurate enough to eliminate any play, ideally the bearing would have to be forced into each side, but the mount i recieved is a tad loose, which makes getting it in and out simple, and with the plastic one clamping it down is solid... perhaps a clamping one would be the solution?? more cost though

thanks MM for your advice so far :)

[MetalMan]

9.5 actually refers to the Ofna 9.5 buggy:
http://ofna.com/manuals.html
It's totally separate from the Hyper series. However, some minor parts like such as those for the differential are interchangeable (1/8 diffs are often interchangeable between different companies).

In my personal opinion, ceramic bearings throughout the car are only worthwhile if you'll be getting into hardcore racing. You can get standard bearings for about $1 each, depending on the size:
http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=i...=1&prevstart=0
Comparing the ceramic bearing kit to standard bearings, you can get three times more standard bearings for $90.

Hoboa (manufacturer of the Hyper series) typically uses rubber shielded bearings. These last the longest of standard metal bearings, but also have the most friction. The bearings themselves won't spin freely, but when attached to the diff they should spin for a bit. If the bearings feel at all gritty then it's most likely time to replace them.

Those screws are the exact ones that come with the servo, so you can bet they're the right thing.

How much play is there between the center diff bearings and the mount?

[tc3_racer_001]

thanks! never ever heard of anoyone owning or using (even on youtube)a hyper 9.5 before!

my thoughts exactly on ceremics, i think my driving needs a lot more work first to make a difference!!

the play is due to the slightly larger cutout for the bearing to allow for tollerances... makes a lot of sense when preoducing multiple. i dont see how id ever shim this (perhaps some tape???) but whether it be ok without it is another question. mike might make me the opposite half out of the same stuff, that way it will look awesome, but hopefully be much better balanced and be easier to boot.

now... to figure out how to order from tower without a credit card... just gotta "borrow" dads :P

[TDC57]

Looking Good!!!!

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

thanks! never ever heard of anoyone owning or using (even on youtube)a hyper 9.5 before!

It's not called a Hyper 9.5, http://www.ofna.com/95-violator.php Don't see to many of them around. Yours is looking good, any idea on how long away?

[tc3_racer_001]

thanks guys, nothing spectacular at this point, im just running/have run out of money... lol

hopefully i wont screw anything up, and i can get it going within 3 weeks... its been a while but only starting to find the issues! still need to order some stuff of tower (to shim the diff)

and get around to taking more pics of the issue ive got with the CD mount.

all i need it to 1. shim it up (knowing me, badly) or 2, buy another hyper mount, and cut the motor bit off (ugly and not cheap) 3, get mike to mill out another matching mount, or 4, cut out the original alloy part to make the hyper mount sit flush, i might try this at school tomorrow, nothing to lose, if it doesnt work, i would have only got like 5 bucks on ebay for it.

got the screw for the servo worked out, will order it along with the diff stuff.


a few more questions: is HPI diff lube the same as most others? ive filled it with 50K but doesnt seem much thicker (though heaps stickier!!!) than hobao 9K stuff...

any suggestions for shock oil (ive got most wts) and springs? which aint cheap, but i will look, perhaps use spacers first and see how it goes.


glad someone is interested, but i find it hard to make much of an impression with all these other (more expensive) builds going on!! o well, least its a new one :)



battery mounting is also causing me grief but ill let you guys figure that one out :D

ryan :)

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Have you tried www.rchobbies.com.au for those shims etc. you require

[tc3_racer_001]

i would, but i cant find the ones i need? maybe im looking for the wrong thing... if you could find them, id order them, but i cant see them!!

thanks,
ryan

edit: http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/pr...53576cae1278a0 would these work? they aint cheap!

[kyosho501x]

on your last picture, what's that aluminum piece where the diff goes?

[tc3_racer_001]

Originally Posted by kyosho501x

on your last picture, what's that aluminum piece where the diff goes?

yes, i wish it wasnt there... would save me alot of problems... REALLY I DONT KNOW WHY THEY PUT IT THERE...

its bracing, but imo unnessary and pointless... just makes adding a motor mount one bit trickier, because you have to take it out to fit the mount, which leaves the opposite side at the wrong height, and nothing for the rear brace to attach to!

any suggestions? im stuck and out of money... this project will have to wait a little longer i think