mbx5t tekno. i need information Daniel

[patxeik]

hi all
Since i converted my revo with the tekno conversion i just think to convert all my nitros to bruslee. Now i have a mugen mbx5t coming up to me the next week and i need some information about the conversion hardware,.....
1- which motor use?
i already have a Tekno RC Edition Neu 1515/1Y/F Motor (5mm shaft, 110A, 2200kv) will be faster enought for the truggy with 4s lipo?

2- i will use 4s 5000mah lipo, will fit on the battery tray.

3- which motor mount use for my neu 44 o 36 mm?


4- how many brace i will keep from stock? i think just the rear one, and the others are made from plastic or nylon? will you made an aluminum upgrade for those parts?

Anyone have more pics of the conversion, i wanna see how the motor mount move into the chassis to atack the spurgear

OK, those are all my questions by the moment, more comming soon

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by patxeik

hi all
Since i converted my revo with the tekno conversion i just think to convert all my nitros to bruslee. Now i have a mugen mbx5t coming up to me the next week and i need some information about the conversion hardware,.....
1- which motor use?
i already have a Tekno RC Edition Neu 1515/1Y/F Motor (5mm shaft, 110A, 2200kv) will be faster enought for the truggy with 4s lipo?

2- i will use 4s 5000mah lipo, will fit on the battery tray.

3- which motor mount use for my neu 44 o 36 mm?


4- how many brace i will keep from stock? i think just the rear one, and the others are made from plastic or nylon? will you made an aluminum upgrade for those parts?

Anyone have more pics of the conversion, i wanna see how the motor mount move into the chassis to atack the spurgear

OK, those are all my questions by the moment, more comming soon

4s will be ok with that motor but i would run 5s. i run 5s with my Neu 1515 1.5D 2700kv and it is insane fast. the motor stays cool too. 5s on your 1y will give you speeds in the 50mph range iam guessing. a bit faster than nitro. 4s you will be same as nitro speeds. view this page for setup info.
http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3276

the tekno kit comes with aluminum chassis braces so you should be fine there


if your neu motor has finned can then you need the 44mm mount and if its smooth can you need the 36mm mount.

[riceman]

See my replies inserted below.

Originally Posted by patxeik

hi all
Since i converted my revo with the tekno conversion i just think to convert all my nitros to bruslee. Now i have a mugen mbx5t coming up to me the next week and i need some information about the conversion hardware,.....
1- which motor use?
i already have a Tekno RC Edition Neu 1515/1Y/F Motor (5mm shaft, 110A, 2200kv) will be faster enought for the truggy with 4s lipo?
I guess that depends on what your application is. Are you racing? If so the 1515/1Y on 4S is plenty fast to run against the nitros. I've run that setup before in a Jammin CRT. Right now I have Medusa 2300 on 4S in the MBX5T.

2- i will use 4s 5000mah lipo, will fit on the battery tray.
The tray dimension is 150mm X 50mm. Longer batteries will fis with modification to the tray (cutting the rear lip)

3- which motor mount use for my neu 44 o 36 mm?
44mm for the finned can

4- how many brace i will keep from stock? i think just the rear one, and the others are made from plastic or nylon? will you made an aluminum upgrade for those parts? You keep the rear brace and the others are aluminum.

Anyone have more pics of the conversion, i wanna see how the motor mount move into the chassis to atack the spurgear The holes in the motor mounts are slotted to allow left/right adjustment the same way they are for nitro engines.






OK, those are all my questions by the moment, more comming soon

[Matthew_Armeni]

44mm for finned Neus, 40mm for smooth can Neus, and 36mm for Medusas and Feigaos.

[patxeik]

thanks guys for the replys, riceman your pics really help to decide i will get this kit.
Im not going to race the truggy against nitro truggys cause there arent many races of this cars in my country, maybe i will race against buggys hehehe but im doing that just to have fun, not to race, i hope my neu 2200 have enought speed.
Riceman are you using the kyosho plastic spurgear? or its not necesary since this kit use an elektric-clutch?

[riceman]

Glad to help with your decision. You will not be disappointed with this kit. I am running the stock metal spur. A plastic spur is not necessary. The kit comes with a hardened clutch bell as part of the Elektri-clutch setup. As long as your mesh is good, you will get good mileage from it.

[patxeik]

thanks again riceman.
I already have my second hand mbx5t, im cleaning it and preparing it to the brushless conversion. But i have a few questions more:
1- which silicone oil do you recommend for the diffs?
2- since the rear/center cva is too long did you have any issue about that, will not bend way too easy. Im not too sure about those centers cvas, the rear is too long and the front one have a lot of ¿"angle"?.
3- to use the mechanical brakes i just will need an y arness? or i will need something to reverse the servo independtly of the radio reverse?
4- why tekno use a two shoes clutch system instead of a three cluth system? it is because with a 2 cluth one you can go reverse with the car?

Hope that make sense, sorry about my language.

[teknorc]

Originally Posted by patxeik

thanks again riceman.
I already have my second hand mbx5t, im cleaning it and preparing it to the brushless conversion. But i have a few questions more:
1- which silicone oil do you recommend for the diffs?
2- since the rear/center cva is too long did you have any issue about that, will not bend way too easy. Im not too sure about those centers cvas, the rear is too long and the front one have a lot of ¿"angle"?.
3- to use the mechanical brakes i just will need an y arness? or i will need something to reverse the servo independtly of the radio reverse?
4- why tekno use a two shoes clutch system instead of a three cluth system? it is because with a 2 cluth one you can go reverse with the car?

Hope that make sense, sorry about my language.

1. For the diffs, follow the instructions or one of the setup sheets available online. The only thing you may want to do is go a little thicker than normal in the center diff - maybe 1-2k higher if desired.

2. Not sure what you mean about the center CVA being too long. Please post a picture of the center drive shaft, they should fit our chassis perfectly. The front is angled a bit more (but still less than a Losi). We've had no issues with this.

3. For mechanical brakes, you can use a Y splitter or use 3rd channel mixing on your radio if available. The brakes will work in both directions so if you don't have channel mixing it will still work.

4. Our two-shoe system is lighter than big block clutch systems and has been working great on monster trucks, buggys and truggies since we started using them over 2 years ago. Just make sure you run the shoes in the correct orientation and that the clutch is shimmed properly to cover all of the shoe.

[patxeik]

i mean that the rear center cva is very lenght so maybe this cause any troubles, just wondering and asking if this could happend.
I already have my tekno kit, just one week from usa to spain, awesome!!!
The chassis is just awesome, 4mm oooohh yesss!!
The center cva looks real good.
Motor mount so nice.
Everything is very good quality, i will recommend everybody.

Troubles that i have found building the kit:
The servo mounts aren,t too high so my associated ds1015 doesn´t fit, so i needed to put a washer between servo mounts and servo. NO PROBLEMS!!!!
I will appreciate a more detailed instructions since im from spain and my english is quite bad.
Not several issues at the moment just a very nice kit, but i really dont like the radio tray, i dont know how to fit my mgm 16018 abd the receiver, will have to work on it.

I cant wait to ride it, pics coming soon!!!
greetings

[patxeik]

PROBLEMS
Hi im finishinf the build of the tekno mbx5t brushless conversion. Im installing the motor mount and the electricluthc and i noticed that the 13 teeth cluthcbell have a very slow diameter so the spring of the two shoe cluth rub the cluthbell when is spinning. So i tried another racers edge( cause the cluthc bell of the tekno kit its a racers edge one i think) clutch bell and the same happend, again the spring rub the cluthc bell (i tried with two clutchs, a mip one and the stock one from the kit). So I installed the stock revo clutch bell, a 15 teeth one and now the cluthc bell spins free and smooth, but when i install all the motor mount with the motor, clutch bell, etc... I noticed that the flywheel rubs on the brake pad. So what i have to do now? install a bigger clutch bell, that will fuck my gear ratio since a 13 clutch bell is reccomended.

I hope you understand what i mean, if you dont i will post some pics. Maybe i have something installed bad but i dont think so. My motor mount is a 44mm.
Thanks for all and greetings

[teknorc]

Hello,

We haven't heard about the clutch bell rubbing the spring before. Is the spring properly seated into the clutch shoe grooves? Do you have pics of this that we can check out.

As for the flywheel hitting the brake pads. This is a known issue with the 44mm mount and a 13t clutch bell. We have been using a Dremel to grind down the center diff mount and the brake pads a tiny bit to get clearance. It won't hurt braking or anything, but needs to be done if you are running that combination. Thanks.

[patxeik]

Thanks for the reply teknorc.
As i said i tryed one mip clutch and happened the same, this mip clutch have a lot of time so i think the spring is correctly seated in the shoe grooves, and also i have tried a 18 teeth racers edge clutch bell and also the spring was rubbing the cluthc bell, i will try again, but this is not a big issue, dont worry. Now im riding a 15 teeth cluthc bell from my revo and gives me the needed clearance to adjust the spur gear, but i will dremel a little next time, im tired of the building right now.
thanks

[patxeik]

hi again.
Im finishing the build of my tekno mbx5t, i installed a 15 teeth clutch bell from my revo.
I noticed that the center rear cva have a little elliptical drawing, is like it was a little bend, i noticed that when i spinned the wheels. I wanna know if that is normal since the rear cva is really long, is not a big issue but just wanna know.
Sorry about my little english hope you understand.
thanks


EDIT:
Im testing the mbx5t with the 15 teeth clutch bell of my revo since the 13 teeth stock clutch bell will hit the brake pads and i dont want to dremel it already. But the 15 teeth bell gets really hot, just with a one run (like 40 meters less than half throotle) i can see smoke on the bell, i dont know if the cause is that a 15 teeht bell is a really wide ratio or because the bell is too old and is a little bend. Motor and esc doesnt get hot and i have tried to put the bell very tight with washers and also a little loose just with one washer and happened the same, already i have the bell with 1mm loose
What shall i try now? i have a 16 teeth clutch bell, im going to try and will see if the problem is of the bell.
I forgot to tell that im running 40series tires with half offset because i dont have truggy wheels right now.

Thanks

[patxeik]

I think the problem of the hot cluthc bell is that the ratio is too wide cause i run the car with the wheels on the air and doesnt get hot, but when i put back on the floor in 5 seconds the bell is really hot. I will need to dremel now.

[MetalMan]

Are you using clutch springs on the clutch? If you are, you can remove those and that should reduce clutch bell temps a bit.