Two BL systems, need help

[nastety92]

I am looking to put a brushless setup in my Stampede and E-Maxx. I'm looking for a brushless setup that I will not have to change many differential or internal parts. More or less I'm looking for a slight increase in power and performance over stock but thats not going to be breaking parts while driving normally. Which combo would be the best for my needs. Thank you for any and all help,

Nick

[Gustav]

Pretty much any BL system will kill the stock idler gears on the e-maxx,Mike has steel ones in the store which are a necessity really.

you could just get the idlers and run the stock sliders if it's a mild enough system or a light weight build but i'd recommend getting 3.3 sliders, knuckles and arms from an ebay chop shop,preferable to cvds IMO since they're cheap and plentiful and equally good.Other than that you can either run the stock slipper locked down or run the strobe slipper.


The mildest system i know of for the maxx is the Novak hv-maxx but alot of people seem to have thermalling problems with it.a fiegao 10l on 12 cells might be fairly mild but still more than the hv-maxx.

[nastety92]

So more or less if I go brushless in my E-Maxx I'm going to have to change a bunch of parts.
What about the Stampede?

Thanks for the responce and the help,
Nick

[Sylvester]

The stampede may only need mip cvds, i dont think the tranny will have any major problems. Id try an BK 8s on a Quark 80B. 7 cells should get her up to speed.

[cart213]

An 8s on 7 cells is more than a mild increase. A mild increase would be a Novak 8.5 on 6 cells. For something stronger but not too strong, a Mamba Max 4600 on 6 cells would work. You don't need cvd's, but you will need an aluminum idler gear on even the Novak. My pede with a 12s and 12 cells is still using the original sliders.

[SpEEdyBL]

An 8s on 6 cells is about the same as a novak 8.5 on 6 cells since that's what I've been hearing since people started using the 8s. And you do need an aluminum gear for the novak. So many people have stripped plastic gears with them.

[cart213]

The kv rating is similar between the 8s and 8.5, but I think the 8s has a lot more torque and can be geared up a bit more than the 8.5 for higher speed.

I've just recieved a feigao 540 8xl and a quark 125 monster pro for an E-Maxx and was told that I need a BEC even though the esc has one built in. Mike at rc-monster told me that the esc is only rated for 10 cells--- here's the spec's.

►Cells : Ni_Cd 5~18 cell
Lithium 2~6 cell
►Continuous : 125A ( @Full throttle, 25°C)
►Surge : 180A/design spec 300A(@10 secs)
►Switching Rate : 38KHz
►Resistance : 0.00036Ω+ 0.00036Ω
►Brake : Realistic ABS( Proportional )
►Low Voltage Cut-Off : Automatic
►High temperature Cut-Off : about 110~120°C
►Reversible : Completely Yes (Without change any wire)
►Timing Adjust : Automatic
►Safety : Full safety Mode with Master Recognition
Competition Mode with delayed Master Recognition
(Programmable with throttle position whenever power on)
►Program : On board Program button and colorful 4 LED
►BEC : 5.6V/5A (input : 8.4V, peak 8A)
►Size : 70 X 34 X 19 mm (Without wire)
►Weight : 78gram (Without wire)


1. Why would I need one, and what would happen if I tried to run it without one?
2. And how do those connectors go; should the male's go on the motor?
3. How do you solder the females?
4. Since the esc is for one battery and the E-Maxx runs on two, I'm gonna need to make a special pigtail for that--- right!

[squeeforever]

1. Your ESC is rated for 18 cells but the bec is rated for 10. You need an external regulator (BEC) to regulate all that voltage.
2. To be honest, it doesn't matter. I put the males on the ESC because the Lehner's have females made on to them.
3. Just put some solder in the correct end and tin the wire, then heat them both up and there ya go.
4. Yes, just make a Y connnector. The + from the ESC should go to the + of a Deans, then the - to the - on another Deans. Then connect the 2 connectors with a piece of wire.

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by nastety92

I am looking to put a brushless setup in my Stampede and E-Maxx. I'm looking for a brushless setup that I will not have to change many differential or internal parts. More or less I'm looking for a slight increase in power and performance over stock but thats not going to be breaking parts while driving normally. Which combo would be the best for my needs. Thank you for any and all help,

Nick

If you are looking for a brushless system that you don't need to change a lot of parts, I would suggest Novak. they're 4300 system would be perfect for the stampede and geared right is as fast as any brushed sport motor (speed gems like) you'd put in there. I seen one run its nice, i got a 5800 in a t4, but it might not be good unless you get an alumnium idler gear.

To the Emaxx, if you want to get away without much mods, I would suggest a Novak HV-maxx brushless system. Its a little weaker than all the other options but i run one in a Gorilla Revo conversion with a stock idler and no problems, not sure how the diffs will be with it, I never run my E with a brushless.

These systems may be more expensive (slightly) than some of the suggestions already given but they can require more in mods than i think you want. The only thing i did with my revo to handle the power is get a Robinson slipper kit with a 72 tooth Plastic gear and run a 12 tooth pinion.

Which ever setup you choose, there is not a loser in the bunch, good luck and have fun

[nastety92]

Thank you very much for all of the replies and help guys. I think at this time I'm going to leave the E-Maxx motors stock and upgrade the Stampede with a small brushless setup in the near future. Instead of upgrading my E-Maxx I've talked to Mike in the past about building me a custom E-Maxx (Or maybe a customer E-Truggy like the LSP), so I think I'm going to do that instead.

Thanks again,
Nick

[BP-Revo]

Yea I ran my stock idlers with my HV in my E-Maxx. I've since gone G2R, and ordered UE idlers so my drivetrain would be relatively bullet proof (mistake - should have got em from Mike = lesson learned).

I just had to slow down since I wanted a BL system like yesterday (figuratively speaking). I figured it out once I sat back and thought about it. For the female's I clamped them vertically, melted some solder down in the dimple, stuck the point of the iron down there, and once melted I hurried up and stuck in the wire before it cooled--- the male's were just as easy.

I did order a ubec and I also remembered that I had a 4-cell AA battery case that came with a Futaba MS radio--- doesn't matter cause I have to wait for the 5mm bore pinion.

Other than that all I need is one more male dean's--- besides the tranny upgrades.