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02.27.2007, 02:14 AM
Most (if not all) buggies, and their truggy counterparts have a certain amount of chassis flex. Believe it or not, this chassis flex actually helps handling, especially on rough terrain or tracks that are really rutted. I even know some drivers that remove the rear chassis brace to promote chassis flex.
That being said, I don't think that a motor mount that fastens the motor to the chassis is the best way to go. If it fastens to the chassis, independent of the center diff mount, then chassis flex could give your plastic spur gear a hard time, or in a worst case scenario, get you a broken shaft. If it fastens to both the chassis and the center diff mount, then it will likely reduce chassis flex and affect overall handling. Some may like this, I don't. I suppose it's just a matter of preference.
I think that the best way to mount the motor is to have a mount made that would incorporate the center diff mount (either front or rear depending on the route you take) and the motor mount. I believe that Mike at RC Monster has made a few for his customers.
The second best way is to find out if there are optional aluminum center diff mounts for your vehicle. I was fortunate to be able to get them for my Turmoil. I then made a motor mount that attached directly to the rear center diff mount. Now the motor moves with the center diff. I haven't had any issues with shaft reach and it is very strong. I've done two conversions using this method and they both worked out very well without any problems. I did my Turmoil with the aluminum center diff mounts and a Losi 8ight with the stock plastic mounts. Both have survived nice crashes and were unaffected.
In fact, I crashed my Turmoil last Thursday. I don't know how fast I was going, but can say that I was at full throttle running an 8L on 4S with a 16/46 gearing. I was haulin' butt. I'll leave out the gory details, but I wound up hitting the tire of a parked car and turned my chassis into a canoe. The MM esc was ripped from its plastic case, my lipo was crushed against the battery strap (it also looked like a canoe), and the motor mounting screws were stripped from the screw holes. The upside was that the motor mount was unharmed. Literally, the only parts I had to replace were the chassis, front torque rod, and the front center shaft. Everything else was salvageable.
For the Turmoil, I used T6 6061 3/16" thick aluminum plate. For the 8ight, I used 1/4" thick T6 7075 aluminum. I found that the 3/16" thick was more than enough for rigidity, although I have ordered some 1/4" thick 6061, just to try it out. Unless you have real machine equipment, I wouldn't try the 7075. It can be a lot more difficult to work than 6061 and it gave me a headache to make that mount for the 8ight.
I got my aluminum from onlinemetals.com You can actually order it cut to size. I ordered mine cut to 2.25" X 3" (if I recall) and then just did the finishing stuff myself. If you have a drill press, you'd be surprised at what you can do with that and a reciprocating saw.
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