Direct soldering motor wires on MM makes a difference. - RC-Monster Forums

01:32 PM

I was having cogging trouble with my MM/ Neu 1512 setup so I decided to get a Feigoa 10L in my old Ofna MBX. After installed the 10L motor I noticed that I was still getting a fair amount of cogging. So then decided to direct solder the motor wires directly to the motor to see if there would be any difference.

The result was very noticeable. Now there seems to be almost no cogging. It's only once in a great while you get the stutter when starting from a dead stop.

Has anyone direct soldered to a Neu motor yet? I'm wondering if it would make a difference there too. The 4mm connectors seem to be part of the problem?

Now my biggest problem is the MBX itself. I need to find a better buggy to put this great system in. I spend way too much time flipping it back onto its wheels!

BrianG · 02.25.2007, 01:37 PM

I wonder if it's a matter of a more solid connection for high current or for the feedback pulses? Were your 4mm connectors dirty or anything?

I'd direct solder them too, but I like being able to easily remove the ESC and/or motor if I need to without using a soldering iron.

Deans should come out with single pole connectors...

BP-Revo · 01:47 PM

Brian - I'm going to use deans when I get my setup. 1 deans plug per wire (wiring each wire to both tabs). I figure that should have the least resistance of any plug setup, even bullet connectors.

Or, I may just hardwire, I'd like to be able to take it out like you said. Then again, my HV was hardwire and it was ok. so...you never know.

squeeforever · 02.25.2007, 02:45 PM

BP, I would use Powerpoles before I would use Deans, but I think that 5.5mm connectors will do fine...

glassdoctor · 02.25.2007, 02:55 PM

I'm going to try the hardwire setup too... to see what happens. I really like having universal plugs to swap out components but I guess if hardwiring makes a big difference it's worth it.

I would think the 5.5mm conns are as good as hardwiring... they are massive and have great positive contact, unlike the little "pinwheel" pins on the 4mm.

02.25.2007, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I wonder if it's a matter of a more solid connection for high current or for the feedback pulses? Were your 4mm connectors dirty or anything?

I'd direct solder them too, but I like being able to easily remove the ESC and/or motor if I need to without using a soldering iron.

Deans should come out with single pole connectors...

My 4mm connectors were new.

BP-Revo · 02.25.2007, 05:53 PM

Why powerpoles before deans? RCCA rated that deans actually have less resistance.

As for the 5.5mm connectors. Those things are EXPENSIVE! 2 bucks per plug - thats 12 bucks for the motor to esc connection.

squeeforever · 02.25.2007, 06:46 PM

I believe thats $2 per male/female so it would only be $6 I think. Not sure...Even if they were $12 for 3 male/females, that would only be $3 more than 3 Deans. :p I would use Powerpoles before deans though because you can use 3 of the single connectors with them since the + and - slip together.

02.25.2007, 10:22 PM

I too had a cogging issue that I traced to a bad Deans connector. Maybe it was just dirty, but the episode left me paranoid about all of my connections. Considering the high amp draw of brushless systems, I started looking for a good solid connector with low resistance. I was looking around for some 5.5mm connectors, but stumbled across some 6mm connectors, on (believe it or not) Neu's website. They had both the 5.5mm and the 6mm. I got the 6mm because I figured that bigger was better and get this. $25 for 10 pairs, shipped. These connectors are short too, so it should make getting connections connected a bit easier.

glassdoctor · 02.26.2007, 12:01 AM

I have wondered about those 6mm conns... are they really bigger than the 5.5? Those are huge! :)

The 6mm look like they might actually be lighter...

I might try these on the battery sometime, with the motor hardwired.

captain harlock · 06:35 PM

Just to add to what cartwheel has said:

In the past I was using the 3.5mm connectors between the motor(1950/10) and controller( Schulze 149.18) while 4mm connectors between the batts( 6s 3700mah lipos) and the esc. Stuttering and cogging were plain CRAZY. I then thought that I should use direct soldering between the motor and esc + 5.5mm connectors between the esc and batts.

For my amazement, cogging went down drastically, but there is still a very slight feeling about it, and the truck is accelerating much smoother.

BrianG · 02.26.2007, 11:58 AM

If using better (or no) connectors helps that much, I wonder if upgrading to 12Ga wire would help. That or shortening the wires. Seems like a resistance issue to me...

captain harlock · 06:36 PM

I've shortened the wires of the esc to something like 2.5cm. Both the batts' and motor's leads. I'm also using 12G wires.

glassdoctor · 03.04.2007, 05:24 PM

I ran my MM/Neu 1512 in my buggy yesterday. I had very little problem with it all day.

A couple times I felt it stumble while on the track (not at start up, but while moving) just like I have seen when running hte stack MM system in 1/10 buggy.

While that is a concern... the good news is that I don't recall any bad cogging under start-up from a stop. Maybe I saw is cog a tiny bit a couple times? But when it's working good I don't pay as close attention... I kinda forget about it, which is nice.

I'll have to get some run time around the house etc... and see how it does. But I'm happy with the results so far.

Before I would occasionally cog pretty bad... yesterday it was pretty much a non-issue. :cool:

03.05.2007, 01:09 AM

Glass
Did you direct solder, use bigger connectors or change anything? I'm guessing you did, but I couldn't really tell from your post.