Getting the LS10 up to my specs....

[rootar]

Well my LS10 has been doing AMAZING after i got the new motor. The motor and esc arent even past 115 after 20 minute runs, the battery averages about 95, also i have yet to run the battery all the way to the cutoff but after running twenty minutes straight it only used 2100 mah out of my 5000 3s, Does this sound right? i wasn't babying it either, I was making it do flatground backflips and tons of highspeed runs and wheelies on pavement.

so after i did two different days of testing it decided it was time to see how well it handled in the air. This is were it started to go down hill, NOT with how the truck handles jumps (jumps like an extremly overpowered 1/8th scale buggy, which is a great thing), its where i found some parts including some of mine werent strong enough for even light bashing at the skate park.

so after breaking a body mount, twisting my motor mount and just about losing my battery i had to do a little thinking, and i came up with this cradle mount dual setup using mike's clamp to tie them together. we dropped the truck from the second story in the hangar and all we got was a loud chassis slap nothing bent or loose. so hopefully it quit this raining and i can air it out tomorrow, All i had to do to the battery box was add two small little end pieces to keep the battery from going for and aft. I also wanted a little bigger bashing and jumping tire to help take the hits better, a set of MOAB M3 compound which are so soft they prolly wont last really long. I have some body mounts ordered but until then i have an elstic pull strap out of a jacket bottom that loops around the shock tower and through the two body holes.



here are the pics, btw i know the tires arent all going the sameway, it was before i glued them and ive fixed it since then.

Who thinks this motor mount will hold up to the torcher that I want to do to it?

[What's_nitro?]

Is the motor heatsink touching the chassis? If not I think the motor will still be jarred by hard landings and will eventually put you back where you started, except with cut motor wires and a burnt out ESC, too. You may want to shave down the rear motor brace a little or make a U-shape cutout below the motor wires. That would make me feel a lot better if it were my truck. You could try and brace the underside of the motor directly with a contoured piece of 3/8-1/2" thick lexan screwed down from below. It wouldn't need to be strapped down either since the motor would never experience negative G forces unless you were crashing bad anyways.

[What's_nitro?]

Better idea: In the first picture - that flat section in the middle of the RC-M heatsink. Cut a piece of plastic to fit snugly between that and the chassis. You could use double-sided tape to secure it to the heatsink, or screw it down to the chassis.

[rootar]

i was thinking a small aluminum wedge cut out of a block and CA that to the rear L mount where it sits flush on the chassis and is "snug" aginist the back edges of the heat sink/clamp which DOES actually support the motor because i bolted it all up and it held the motor perfect and it was easy for me to get my short little motor screws in the front. So you and I are thinking the same thing right? if i do put a very mellow wedge it will be almost as if sitting on a solid alumnium cradle mount to the frame.....

[Arct1k]

You could try using one of mikes revo motor mount which supports at both ends and would fit flat on chassis

[MTBikerTim]

I really don't think your motor is going anywhere. The RCM heatsink is screwed to the front and rear motor mounts isn't it. You could use mikes revo mount and I was wondering if that would work cause I am thinking about a brushless racer and the ls10 looks good.

[rootar]

yes the heatsink is screwed to both mounts and its tight aginist the motor. We put together a makeshift ramp at school today with a folding table and some sheets of aluminum and rugs for traction, and i did prolly 20-30 jumps about head high, and it didnt budge even landing on the concrete floor. so i think im safe for now, now as soon as it drys up outside ill do some real testing.

btw is it just me or are brushless trucks extremley easy to do flips and make corrections with mid air??? i was looking like a pro today at school.

[MTBikerTim]

Originally Posted by rootar

yes the heatsink is screwed to both mounts and its tight aginist the motor. We put together a makeshift ramp at school today with a folding table and some sheets of aluminum and rugs for traction, and i did prolly 20-30 jumps about head high, and it didnt budge even landing on the concrete floor. so i think im safe for now, now as soon as it drys up outside ill do some real testing.

btw is it just me or are brushless trucks extremley easy to do flips and make corrections with mid air??? i was looking like a pro today at school.

Probably really depends on the setup of the truck. The instant throttle responce, torque and ability to rev probably helps too. Your truck being fairly short/light with the big wheels would help too.

Are the diffs in that thing plastic, or are they nice and tough steel or something?

[rootar]

steel, just like the 1/8th scale lightnings

Is it the same diffs?

[rootar]

no they are slightly smaller im sure and they are a different ratio, 13pinion and 40ring