What do you think of my buggy project?

I'am to build a pure racing buggy, and i want you let me know what you think.
First, i'am not yet decided which buggy i'll take beween the Mugen MBX5R, the Associated RC8 and the X-Ray XB8EC, but for now, my heart beat a little faster for the Mugen
Next, my setup will be this one: MGM 16018, Neu 1515, 1Y (i normally take a 1512, but i've ever the 1515 that i've remove from my revo to swap it nitro), an EVO25, 5000mAh, 4s flightpower li-po.

My goal is to keep the clutchbell system and the stock mechanical brake system.
I want to take a RCM revo motor mount amd bolt it on the frame of the buggy, just right behind the rear center diff mount.
Next i'll take the Tekno RC Elektri-clutch adapter with the Tekno RC new compact flywheel, and use a revo 16 tooths clutchbell with MIP clutch shoes.
I'll install a servo just behind the steering servo, to keep the mechanical brake.

My goal is to build a racing machine only, and keep as possible the nitro trigger feeling..

Comments please if somebody here have ever did it with an 1/8 scale buggy.

I'll keep you inform of the projet with pics ASAP.

David

[Serum]

I'm missing the hyper 8.5 pro in your list..

Comes with wicked diffs..

Please ditch the clutch, it's completely point and useless on a brushless car.

Why did you say that clutch is completly useless in a brushless setup??

And please tell me what you mean by "wicked diffs" on the Hyper 8.5.
I'am french and somes english xpression i don't understand.

But for the 8.5, i'am not realy interest, for the only reason that Ofna is always change the model and specs of the 1/8 scale buggy. They have too much buggy available, i prefer a compagnie who focus on only one buggy model like mugen or x-ray.

But i'am certain that the 8.5 is a very competitive buggy.

[Serum]

They use the same diffs as what UE calls 8 spiders, the ones with the aluminum houses and the 6 little spider gears.

OK thank you Serum for the diff, you'are right, it's a Spyder diffs, and it' bulletproof, but you not tell me why you said that clutchbell is unecesary on a brushless....
The main reason why i want a clutchbell, is when i land a big jump, i want that the clutch (and not the motor) take the big "spin" of the center diff when the wheel touch the ground.
When you hit the brake in the air to "nose down" the buggy, the wheel stop to turn, and when the buggy hit the ground, the wheel re-start to spin and give a big "hit" to the motor, so with a clutchbell, you eliminate this problems.

My goal is to make it very reliable.
And if i don't like the clutchbell system, i'll simply re-instal the right motor mount for the buggy and return to a standard pinion/spur setup.
And more easy, the tekno Electri-clutch have a 5mm shaft where the clutchbell bearing, so i'll can leave this in place and simply put the standard pinion on the tekno elektri-clutch adapter.

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

OK thank you Serum for the diff, you'are right, it's a Spyder diffs, and it' bulletproof, but you not tell me why you said that clutchbell is unecesary on a brushless....
The main reason why i want a clutchbell, is when i land a big jump, i want that the clutch (and not the motor) take the big "spin" of the center diff when the wheel touch the ground.
When you hit the brake in the air to "nose down" the buggy, the wheel stop to turn, and when the buggy hit the ground, the wheel re-start to spin and give a big "hit" to the motor, so with a clutchbell, you eliminate this problems.

My goal is to make it very reliable.
And if i don't like the clutchbell system, i'll simply re-instal the right motor mount for the buggy and return to a standard pinion/spur setup.
And more easy, the tekno Electri-clutch have a 5mm shaft where the clutchbell bearing, so i'll can leave this in place and simply put the standard pinion on the tekno elektri-clutch adapter.

The clutch increases the overall rotating mass of parts that the motor will have to turn...and therefore places additional strain on your motor. My preference is to keep my setups as simple as possible...Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS)...just another American slang term for you to put in your toolbox...

The clutch increases the overall rotating mass of parts that the motor will have to turn...and therefore places additional strain on your motor

You're right, but please, the little extra "strain and rotating mass" of a clutchbell setup, on a Neu 1515 motor, who normally can push a 13lbs++ monster truck over 50m/h, will not (this is what i think, correct me if i'am wrong) place a big "stress" on the motor on this little 7.5 lbs 1/8 scale buggy

+++++I don't have to buy the RCM revo motor mount, i'll simply use my RCM Mugen motor mount, and place it just behind the stock center diff mount.

I just try it and it work like a charm

Now i must absolutly take the Mugen MBX5R.....sorry RC8another time for you!!!

Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS)...

I don't know what's this mean, i'am married with 3 kids

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by Serum

They use the same diffs as what UE calls 8 spiders, the ones with the aluminum houses and the 6 little spider gears.

Thought that the hyper 8.5 only had the 6 gear diff in the center and had std diffs in the front and reas cases?

Not to step on your toes Serum, but the clutch setup in the tekno revo works well. I have quite a bit of time on mine now and can only find one fault. It does get hot on low speed running, right at the speed that the clutch is still slipping. For heavy bashing it works like a charm, and the tekno guys had good success with racing too.

Now I think that mike's center diff with the slipper built in would be the best bet for a basher. Put some decently heavy fluid in it and use motor brakes, but have the benefit of the slipper for hard landings, etc.

I do like the mech. brakes on my tekno revo. They work very well and my quark/aveox setup stays cool too! Mybe mech brakes and the centerdiff/slipper would be the best bet. I love reverse, so I am torn between the two!

It does get hot on low speed running, right at the speed that the clutch is still slipping

Hey James, do you use the clutch shoes mount in leading postion, or you use it in "normal" position?

When my buggy will be done, i'll try it without the spring, so it'll suppose to engage at verrrrrrrrrrry low rpm and not supose tu overheat

[Serum]

Yeah, i am not saying it's not drivable linc, it's just not an absolute neccity in a brushless car. that heat you are experiencing is simple a lost of energy. A clutch on electric conversions simple isn't needed.

If the slipper thing is why you want to use one, i completely agree, but the slipperdiff as Mike has it is a much better suited option in my opinion.

[hemi123]

you might want to get a bigger pack for that mgm 160amp controller. if you go with 5000mah make sure that the c rate is at least 25 if not the controllers built in lipo cut off will kick in on you at half throttle only if you throttle up really fast. i had this happen with some of my lower mah packs that were a little under 4000mahs.
as for the buggy i too also like the mugen. but have you seem the losi 8ight its also a good choice.
i would run it with the clutch for a while then take it off an try it an see what works better.don't knoe if the clutch will help out its main goal is to help a nitro motor get up on step by letting it rev up into its power band. electric just doesn't need that kind of help.

don't knoe if the clutch will help out its main goal is to help a nitro motor get up on step by letting it rev up into its power band. electric just doesn't need that kind of help.

So why tekno have make the kit with a clutch??????????????
If it was not necessary to run a clutchbell on an electric, why Tekno would spend soooooooooooo much time to develop and build it?????

I think that the main goal of Tekno is to give to the electric conversion the same "trigger feeling" than nitro, and can keep the mechanical brake.

And for the LVC kick at half trottle, i don't know why, flightpower is suppose to be excellent pack, and realy don't know why the MGM 16018 will cut at half trotle

Anyway, i'll be using my buggy only for racing, and re-peak the pack after every 5 minutes run, so if it's a problem for me, i'll disable the LVC and run it in "race mode".

[glassdoctor]

I have wanted to try a clutch setup too. But then I recall that when running my nitro 8ight T last summer, the biggest problem I had was the clutch. The stock shoes (2 alum 2 fiber) wore pretty bad and would get hung up and start slipping. Then I put in a 4 alum shoe setup... that got tore up. So I bought a set of hard 7075 King Heads shoes... and they are not wearing out too bad, but still I'm not happy with the slippage etc. It's just a headache for me.

I had fun running nitro ... but that was a pain.

Sound like if you use to heavy spring. Try lighter one, and the clutch will engage at lower rpm and stay engage longer.