MM problems with Hacker

[Unsullied_Spy]

I was going to have my MM sent in for new capacitors, but I got a new Hacker and wanted to test it out before sending the ESC back (since it will be a while before I get my ESC back) and it works perfectly with my Mamba motor but when I hook up my Hacker it just cogs and stutters. I can work it up to half throttle or so holding it off the ground then jump the throttle up to full and it works but from a stop it just cogs. I put it on the ground (this is in an Electric Traxxas Rustler, I should mention) and went to go and it just stutters around. I'm far from overgeared (18/90 right now, I was going to run it with my Badlands in some fairly tall stuff) and everything is hooked up right and I've reprogrammed it both through the computer and the remote and it still won't go. I loosened the motor up and moved it away from the spur and it seemed to work OK, but I'm clueless as to why it won't work when there is any load on it.

[MetalMan]

Are you using connectors? If so, which ones? One possibility is a weak solder joint or connection somewhere between the motor and ESC.

[pullinteef]

Which hacker motor? I bought an E40 5.5 turn for my B44 and had some cogging at first. I went to a slightly smaller pinion and upped the start power to high. Also, I soldered the wires directly and forego the connectors. No cogging since switching the MM settings. On another note, anyone know why the MM in my RC8 on 4S comes in at 130F after 10 a ten minute race, while the MM in my B44 comes in at 190F after a 10 minute race. Motors comparable in temp but ESC always gets hotter in B44.

[Unsullied_Spy]

I'm using CC 4mm bullet connectors between the ESC and motor, soldered the same way I did the 5mms on my MGM and Neu and it works beautifully. It's a b50 8s currently geared significantly lower than my Mamba Max 5700 was. I also noticed that the wires from the battery to the ESC were extremely hot after trying to run it on the ground a few seconds and the battery wires were rather hot.

[lincpimp]

Ditch the connectors and see how it does. I have had a variety of issues with the 4mm connectors on the mm. The b50 8s is capable of pulling more juice than the cc motors. What battery are you using, and what are the settings on the MM?

[Unsullied_Spy]

I asked someone else what he thought the problem could be and he also said it sounded like a connector problem and I thought about the motor wires. The original owner supposedly never used it (doesn't seem like it was used) but he put wire extenders on it so the wires could actually reach the ESC and they might not be thick enough. I'll try de-soldering my 4mms and replacing the motor wires with some quality 12 awg wire and see what that does. My MM motor has 13 awg wires on it and even on the original firmware it did very well (mine's an oldschool one with the old bearings and the old banana connectors, great motor but I cooked it running too hot in the grass :().

Looking at the wires on the motor I should have thought about that earlier they are 16 awg at best, no wonder they couldn't supply the amps.

For ESC settings, I was running proportional w/ reverse lockout on High start power with lowest timing and no punch control or drag brake but I reset all that to default as one of my troubleshooting steps. Batteries used so far are a 3s Maxamps 6k lipo and a 2s 8k MA lipo, both of which fed my Velineon, MM 5700, and Neu 1515 1.5D quite well so they should do fine in my Slacker.

I'll try to remember to drop by the hardware store tomorrow after work and get the best 10-12 awg wire they sell and see what happens from there. Thank you all very much for your help so far!

[Unsullied_Spy]

I pulled the heat shrink off the thin part of the wires on the motor and it is 12 awg wire, it just doesn't have any insulation on it (other than the heat shrink I just removed). I have no idea why it would work just fine with my Mamba but my brand new Hacker isn't working.