Lipo rewire?

[Jeremy1976]

Well I have done plenty of soldering in my life on about 4 different electric R/C's. I have a pack now that I just got that has telephone cable sized wires on it and I would like to rewire it myself. I already ordered up 2 1 foot sections of 12 ga wire from Mike. My question is basically take off the shrink wrap by cutting it off carefully, then simply heat up the battery leads to unsolder, then solder on new leads? Reshrinkwrap when done? Anything I am missing? Would like some direction on this. Thanks guys.

[lincpimp]

Unless you have an 80watt plus iron do not bother.

[Jeremy1976]

Not sure what wattage it is. Its a weller and was used for stained glass work. Same one I used on all my connections. You plug it into 110.

[Finnster]

Redoing packs isn't that hard, but it can still be a pain, and potentially dangerous if you ar not careful. You can do it a variety of ways, either remove all the batt shrink off and apply new, or just cut the end and tape/shrink it again. If you really want to keep the label, you can cut it out and tape it on top, or even reuse shrink and tape over slice down the side.

Best way is to use all new shrink.

The ends are usually covered w/ tape and maybe foam or cardboard to protect the tabs. You have to take this off too. This is where you have to be careful. Don't short the pack, and best to cover all the other tabs w/ tape while you solder on one. Last thing you want is a tool or wire sliding and touching two tabs, blammo! Put everythig back on in reverse.

For what you are doing, I wouldn't take the pack apart, just trim the wires back and splice on your new wire. Two cuts and two soldering jobs and you are done.

[Jeremy1976]

Originally Posted by Finnster

Redoing packs isn't that hard, but it can still be a pain, and potentially dangerous if you ar not careful. You can do it a variety of ways, either remove all the batt shrink off and apply new, or just cut the end and tape/shrink it again. If you really want to keep the label, you can cut it out and tape it on top, or even reuse shrink and tape over slice down the side.

Best way is to use all new shrink.

The ends are usually covered w/ tape and maybe foam or cardboard to protect the tabs. You have to take this off too. This is where you have to be careful. Don't short the pack, and best to cover all the other tabs w/ tape while you solder on one. Last thing you want is a tool or wire sliding and touching two tabs, blammo! Put everythig back on in reverse.

For what you are doing, I wouldn't take the pack apart, just trim the wires back and splice on your new wire. Two cuts and two soldering jobs and you are done.

You are right. Maybe it would just be easier to splice. I guess I just do not want to have any additional resistance. I would like to retain the stock wrap on it too. I hate to tear into a brand new pack that just costed me $140.

Linc my Soldering iron is a Weller SPG80. It is a 80 watt I just checked.

I got the wire coming from Mike I will just splice it in then. To splice it the best way I was going to tin each wire then solder them together parallel to each other and shrink wrap over them. Sound like the best way to you guys?

[Jeremy1976]

Awesome!!! I just got off the phone with Pat at RC-Lipos and he said that he has one pack with 10 gauge on it he is going to send me out tomorrow. I am going to send him this one back tomorrow. He stated with the high "c" rating packs the pack builders did not want to run any smaller wire than 8 gauge and then they would usually use a bullet connector to connect it up instead of Deans or Traxxas. However this is for super high amp draws. They now are switching them to 10 gauge. If I cannot shoe horn the 10 into the connector then I will just splice some 12 on it.