Project Jammin X2CRT-Pro electric

Hi !

I have been waiting for long time to get new project to started.

For 2 weeks ago I got my Jammin X2 CRT Pro ( Hongnor X2CRT Pro ) with no motor or electric parts included exept steering and throttle/brake servos from Finland.

Two days ago I bought these parts:

- Tekin RX8 ESC with T8 motor ( truggy 2250kv ) .
- 2 x Flightpower 3S ( 11,1v ) zippy's ( 30C ) .
and hotwire for ESC.

I have been heard that zippy's and some other low price LiPo's have been puffed and overheated because of motor braking problems, so I have been planned that I would install mechanic brakes with throttle/brake servo, and put 3 shoe 1/8th scale clutch with this conversion kit from Impaktrc:

http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3523

Its not only reason why I have been planned that conversion kit, it will not only reduce heat, I am interested about the smoothness of the nitro truggys and buggys, I am not trying to do bashing car.

Because I don't like pop the wheelie all the time in the air, I have already in my car Jammin ( hongnor ) super-torsen differential, that would reduce that effect even at high speeds.

Now here is some pictures:



The quality of RX8 and T8 is sweet, I was like WHOA when I just opened the package first time !








Sorry about low quality.


I will take more pictures ( maybe with better camera next time ) when I get more parts and stuffs soon, 3 channel radios and the conversion kit have not yet ordered. Maybe some videos coming when I get car ready to drive.

More informations and specs coming soon.








- Tapio.

I probably would've gotten the 1700kv motor since it would be running on 6S. It would spin at 38k rpm, which is probably better than the 2250k spinning at 50k rpm.

Then again, I'm using a MMM 2200 on 6S, and have had no problem.

I can use advanced settings with hotwire to reduce the power settings with computer if needed, its not problem I think so. I just got that ESC combo easily so I didn't wait that I would get 1700kv motor.

What do you guys like my project ? I try to make my car pretty fast and still smooth to drive if its possible with that motor and those batteries.

Looks good so far. The question now is, how are you going to mount the electronics?

RCM motor mount is an obvious choice, as well as the RCM battery mounts. Though I suggest to put the batteries at the rear, on either side (saddle-pack style), and the motor with the esc up front. See my layout below.

In my experience, this provides good balance. Also, having the motor/esc weight closer to the front end helps lessen wheelies.

How about this one conversion kit for my X2CRT :) http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3523 ? I was meaning that I will may be buy that conversion kit as soonest as possible, meaning about 2 weeks.

If there is another smart possibilities to make other kind of conversion with 3 shoe 1/8th scale clutch and mechanical brakes I am interested to hear ideas :) . Its really hard to make homemade-conversion if you are interested to do conversion with clutch and mechanic brakes, thats why I am interested about impaktrc:s conversion kit. The mechanical brakes are not hard to make, clutch conversion is. Thats why.

Nice and clean conversion flipmac ;D .

Today I bought 3 channel 2,4ghz radios, futaba 3PM. In next week I am going to buy impaktrc:s v3 kit. I need to get also 4S batteries in next week.

And 10 awg cables are also coming with 10mm hxt gold connectors, I think that those cables and connectors are enough :D .


- Tapio.

TeknoRC kit c3 has been orderer, will come at next week. batteries have been ordered from hobbycity, 3 x 4s 5000mah 30C pakcs - would be enough !

That makes about 33.000 rpm with 2250rpm motor.

Electric clutch, bearings and some other stuffs have been ordered too.


-Tapio.

[superek4]

Sorry to tell u heat issue is not due to motor braking it's usually due to undergear or overgear. I run a 6s 5000 zippy n 1600kv medusa finish a 40min main vs nitro no heat issue.

Also manage to get 3rd. I dun like mech brakes due to difficult to repair if race break down n extra weight.

Ok. Anyways I will use mechanic brakes because I ordered that conversion kit, and its not the only reason why I choosed teknorc's v3 kit, the main reason is that I can use electric clutch wich is very good choise to increase smoothness when driving.

The 4s with 2250kv is good choise I think so, not too much power to handle when driving.

The teknorc's v3 conversion is also very nice and clean conversion kit so that is one of the reasons too :D . Im trying to make clean conversation and good car to race without heat or gearing problems.

[superek4]

For smoothless I use rc monster slip diff much better then d clutch system can tune using diff oil or tightness. Clutch system still need clutch shoe n spring.

The slip diff is not ideal for my use because then I can't use torsen differential in the middle of the car, and I won't remove if its not needed.

If the clutch system is not good, I can remove the shoes and spings to better ones, there is also many kind of springs and shoes to choose.

[superek4]

Hv u tried torsen on BL before can they take the torque n power? I read in some thread it can't take it. That's y I use regular diff n center slip diff

This is conversation with medusa 80mm 1600rpm and 4-6s lipos. http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l1...o/IMG_3816.jpg , http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=16816&page=2 . It takes the power easily, no problems at all. That means you don't have maybe correct information. I won't remove the center torsen, it is good differential and it can handle the power in the same way like regular differential aswell.

That is good reason to use torsen, slip differential is not my thing and not good for my use.