e-maxx or ? e-savage - RC-Monster Forums

v1d9uy · **e-maxx or ? e-savage -** 04.09.2007, 09:03 PM

and no i dont mean the e-zilla e-savage i mean the gas 1/8scale savage converted to electric i have a perty stock e-maxx other then my proline powerstroke shocks and aluminum bulks and i am sooo tired of breaking driveshafts and a arms and etc etc .... and i already know the recomended upgrades .. but do i throw all the money into a car i am very sick of taking apart or do i just buy something much more durable like the 1/8scale savage and do a electric conversion ? now i have no exp at all with HPI or the savage but everywhere i read they say the savage is like the most durable basher out there and i only bash and bash hard i do ... so lemme here some pros and cons :)

squeeforever · 04.09.2007, 11:20 PM

Personally, If you bash hard, go with the Savage. If you do, let me know, I might be willing to take those Powerstrokes off your hands. :)

v1d9uy · 04.10.2007, 12:19 AM

also should i concider the revo ? i know the electric conversion is fairly simple on it but im unsure about the savage but mostly i want durability

squeeforever · 04.10.2007, 12:56 AM

Revos are durable, but it your really a hardcore basher, go with a Savage. No doubt. Revos are more at home on the track, but don't get me wrong, they can make one hell of a nice basher.

MetalMan · 04.10.2007, 01:01 AM

Yeah, the Revo is a nice basher. That is my bashing truck. I have a Savage in pieces in my garage that I have had the intention to build as an electric basher (and make the Revo a racer), but the Revo is just so good at racing and bashing that I haven't gotten around to it :005:.

v1d9uy · 04.10.2007, 09:16 AM

i dunno its a hard decision i kinda like the fact the savage is 1/8th scale not 1/10
for some reason that makes me think its more durable...

SixShooter · 04.10.2007, 12:15 PM

Personaly I would stick with the Emaxx since you don't have to buy one. Then on top of it, you already have a head start on hop ups. The truck is a PITA to work on, I'll give you that much. But there is a few things you can buy that will make working on it easier...plug beef it up a little. I would also think twice about keeping the stock a-arms. I look at them as a controlled break. Their my weak spot and easy to replace add a very fair price. Here is my suggested list:

CVDs
Aluminum towers
Hex screw kit
Hardcore skids

BrianG · 04.10.2007, 12:17 PM

While the savage might be 1/8th scale, it is probably heavier when completed. And heavier trucks break easier than lighter ones in my experience - kinda like dropping a mouse vs an elephant out of a second story building. :)

squeeforever · 04.10.2007, 12:24 PM

Personally, if your gonna go with the Maxx, go with RPM arms, 3.3 setup, FLM towers, FLM skids, and a FLM chassis. That should get it pretty close to being bulletproof, aside from the diffs.

SixShooter · 04.10.2007, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Personally, if your gonna go with the Maxx, go with RPM arms, .

Oh ya, if you just have to have aftermarket parts...RPM is your company. Their arms are a lot more elastic compared to stock arms. I would buy an extra pair just in case. I've broke an RPM axle carrier on my Revo. They replaced it for free but I still had to wait a week for the replacement part.

v1d9uy · 06:09 PM

i agree on keeping the stock a-arms so i can have that as a week point and there not that hard to change i would like to beef up the diffs cuz hey are annoying to get to is there anything thats not major $$$$ that will beef up the diffs ? or that i can replace the diffs with ?and i was gunna run cvds but im afraid they may bend .. and that would really piss me off lol so i was gunna go 3.3 revo sliders but then realized i would have to go to 3.3 knuckes and diffrent a-arms....then it turns into alot of money at one time. i was thinking of going with the flm chassis tho its $90 and thats a ton cheaper then the other ones and everyone says there super strong..

SixShooter · 04.10.2007, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v1d9uy

i agree on keeping the stock a-arms so i can have that as a week point and there not that hard to change i would like to beef up the diffs cuz hey are annoying to get to is there anything thats not major $$$$ that will beef up the diffs ? or that i can replace the diffs with ?and i was gunna run cvds but im afraid they may bend .. and that would really piss me off lol ..

Well I may get flamed for this but the T/Emaxx is the worst truck out of the box to work on in my opinion. I didn't buy my parts to beef it up, I bought them to make it easier on my lazy butt lol That is why I run CVDs...I was sick of replacing stock plastic shafts! They also make it a little easier working on the rest of the truck. As for bending them, I'm sure if you bash, you'll break/bend something. That is the nature of this hobby. As for the diffs, I'm not sure on that one. I would atleast run aluminum diff cups. I would also look into some steel idler gears for the gear box as well.

Procharged5.0 · 04.10.2007, 08:43 PM

I vote for the E-Maxx. I love my E-Maxx. It needs some upgrades to be reliable for bashing but parts are EVERYWHERE for it and at all price ranges.

If you are a serious thrasher/basher only then pick the Savage.

If you want a great does-it-all truck buy the Revo.

v1d9uy · 04.10.2007, 10:42 PM

thanks for everyones info iv been looking at cvds ... and they are out there for alot of diffrent prices MIP goes for $40 ish just for 2 on the other hand theres a few others where i can get the full set for $40 ish... metal is metal right ? also since my a-arms are stock and such is there a diffrence in the 2.5 and 3.3 cvds ? and on another note my truck just stoped moving today it sounds like striping gears i took out both diffs and i cant see any signs of wear on them so i checked out the tranny and it looks fine to i put it all back and it still does it. anyone know what this might be ? could it be the diffs flexing enough for the gears not to touch or since i got my truck used could it be because there arent any shims of some sort in the diffs?

SixShooter · 04.11.2007, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v1d9uy

and on another note my truck just stoped moving today it sounds like striping gears i took out both diffs and i cant see any signs of wear on them so i checked out the tranny and it looks fine to i put it all back and it still does it. anyone know what this might be ? could it be the diffs flexing enough for the gears not to touch or since i got my truck used could it be because there arent any shims of some sort in the diffs?

I had this happen before and all I had done was bump that red switch with my thumb. The one used for reverse on Tmaxx/Revos. The gear box sounded like everything was stripped out. I flipped it back and everything worked.