MM cogging when on ground, not when in air

[supralover72]

I finally had time to charge my lipo, I took my buggy out for her maiden voyage, and she was fine for the first 2 full throttle's, then she went full lock brake by herself, then cogged HEAVILY. Then she'd be fine for about a second or one run, full lock and cogg. But here's the kicker, she seemed fine when I pulled her off the gound.

The only thing that got hot was the ESC and the motor was warm, and this was only after about 60 seconds of runnning.

I changed my programming from 50% punch control to zero and changed the reverse setting to reverse lockout. I also changed start power from medium to low.

Gearing is 15/46 w/8xl and neu 4s

Will this work?

Any ideas?

I don't want to have wasted all this time and money and screw it up. Thanks.

[Arct1k]

Hmm Check your motor leads - is one loose perhaps?

The novak HV cap seems to help my MM lots too

[supralover72]

Nope, direct soldered all of them. Just read one of your old threads and changed start power back to medium. I'm going to go try it and check it out.

[bdebde]

Check the battery connector too! and your solder joints

[supralover72]

Checked everything and ran it with the new settings. After the wheel and the pinion fell off, everything was tightened and fixed. It's INFINITELY better now, but it still get's really bad after a longer time now. It seems to happen when I turn around. But now, it's so bad it just sputters and doesn't move, and my steering gets erratic for a little.

Any ideas?

[Arct1k]

I didn't see you say you were using an ubec - are you?

If not the MM bec could be getting very toasty and messing up power to everything... STOP now if you don't have a ubec

[MetalMan]

If you smell the MM, does it smell even slightly burnt? It's possible a couple FETs burned up.

[supralover72]

Doesn't smell burnt.

I am using a UBEC without the red wire on the mm.

Oh yea, the ESC doesn't really get hot anymore until it starts cogging. I'm going to mess with it more tomorrow as it's late here.

I'll try high start power tomorrow.

Originally Posted by supralover72

Doesn't smell burnt.

I am using a UBEC without the red wire on the mm.

Oh yea, the ESC doesn't really get hot anymore until it starts cogging. I'm going to mess with it more tomorrow as it's late here.

I'll try high start power tomorrow.

do you have the 1.17 firmware?, it was a huge improvement

[lincpimp]

Hey Supra, move the bec away from the the top of the receiver. That usually cures my glitching problems.

Originally Posted by supralover72

Doesn't smell burnt.

I am using a UBEC without the red wire on the mm.

Oh yea, the ESC doesn't really get hot anymore until it starts cogging. I'm going to mess with it more tomorrow as it's late here.

I'll try high start power tomorrow.

stay away from the high power at start, do you have quality batteries?

[supralover72]

Thanks for the tip Linc I'll deff. Try that since the problems did seem like glitching.

azjc, I do have high quality batts, thanks. I have a neu 25c 4s pack, it's not the batt

EDIT: Tried it today with the BEC moved from the receiver to the inside side of the batt holder. it was INFINITELY better. This thing is a beast! It still coggs really bad at times though, but it seems like it only starts after about 50-100 ft. But when it does start it continues for a little (20 sec.) even in range, then goes away. Is this my radio?

[supralover72]

Anyone have anymore ideas?

[glassdoctor]

Try a 5 cell rx pack instead. That will tell you if it's RF glitching from the UBEC

[supralover72]

Thanks I'll try that.