Phoenix HV-110 for E-Revo?

i'm going to upgrade my 6s MGM, Neu 1515 1.5d Tekno converted Revo into 12s.
Question is the Phoenix HV-110 http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...hv_series.html
going to be ok for my revo? i've got the tekno setup so i'm running one way motor, a clutch and mechanical brakes..

[Arct1k]

yes but you need a pistix...

[Patrick]

Are you going to use a different motor for 12s?

[Sammus]

It's got the 'low torque soft start' feature that plagues many air esc's making them unsuitable for cars. I emailed CC with this exact question a couple months back when I was building mine and they strongly recommended against it.

[Arct1k]

Ask BrianG he uses it...

[BrianG]

I've only used it momentarily in my basement, but from the little I've seen, it works fine. Depending on the application, any soft start may be desired to protect the drivetrain. 10s-12s is capable of a LOT of power...

[Sammus]

Yeah true, but if its anything like the soft start on the turnigy hv esc then it will be no good for jumping.

Originally Posted by Sammus

Yeah true, but if its anything like the soft start on the turnigy hv esc then it will be no good for jumping.

yes or else i'll fry the 1515 1.5d... i'm going to get the 1515 2y so it works out to be around 55,000rpm. Just a few under the suggested limit to be safe =]

Its an E-Revo setup for on road bashing only.. no jumps at all. I always give it a decent rolling start before unleshing it all so this shouldnt be a problem =]

[Sammus]

May as well get the Turnigy one then. I've got one for sale with the programming card if you want it ;)

thanks for the offer but i think i'm going with the phoenix 110 to start of first =]

[BrianG]

FWIW: the HV-110 is conservatively rated current-wise. It really should be listed as a 130A ESC, and that includes temperature derating of the FETs.

[MetalMan]

The HV-110 in my Savage works perfectly. I'd even compare it to CAR/TRUCK ESCs just without brakes (although somebody did get brakes out of the HV-110). This ESC is very smooth and I had no problems with its startup.

[Sammus]

<rant>
The smoothness I think is the problem, my $100 turnigy HV is extremely smooth, I've never experience anything but smoothness with it, never any sign of cogging or anything.

The point is that its too smooth, its good to bash and drive around on tar or do donuts on gravel, but as soon as you want to race it or jump it (by which I mean doing jumps and landing them nicely, not byt style hitting some shitty homemade kicker in the middle of the road and landing on the roof on flat ground 10m away) you find its useless.

It's KIND of like punch control, except at 100000% and it only is applied to acceleration from 0rpm. The spool up speed from stand still is severly limited, so much so that if you hit a jump and nose down a little, tap the throttle to nose up, the motor wont actually spool up till you've done half a front flip and your 10cm from the gravel, roof first. The starting is set to as hard as possible (which is actually called 'normal')

It is a feature of all Air ESC's as I understand it (See "low torque soft start" listed in every air esc description) and although the softness may vary between manufacturers, I suspect it will still cause problems.

And I'm 99.99% certain its not just my controller, since I have heard several people say this in person and have experienced it personally on two controllers. The only people I have heard say it (the turnigy) doesnt exhibit this behaviour (no offense to them) are people that don't know how to jump properly anyway so wouldn't even notice, and seem to spend most of their time doing speed runs on the tar and rallying around on the dirt anyway.

</rant>

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by Sammus

<rant>
The smoothness I think is the problem, my $100 turnigy HV is extremely smooth, I've never experience anything but smoothness with it, never any sign of cogging or anything.

The point is that its too smooth, its good to bash and drive around on tar or do donuts on gravel, but as soon as you want to race it or jump it (by which I mean doing jumps and landing them nicely, not byt style hitting some shitty homemade kicker in the middle of the road and landing on the roof on flat ground 10m away) you find its useless.

It's KIND of like punch control, except at 100000% and it only is applied to acceleration from 0rpm. The spool up speed from stand still is severly limited, so much so that if you hit a jump and nose down a little, tap the throttle to nose up, the motor wont actually spool up till you've done half a front flip and your 10cm from the gravel, roof first. The starting is set to as hard as possible (which is actually called 'normal')

It is a feature of all Air ESC's as I understand it (See "low torque soft start" listed in every air esc description) and although the softness may vary between manufacturers, I suspect it will still cause problems.

And I'm 99.99% certain its not just my controller, since I have heard several people say this in person and have experienced it personally on two controllers. The only people I have heard say it (the turnigy) doesnt exhibit this behaviour (no offense to them) are people that don't know how to jump properly anyway so wouldn't even notice, and seem to spend most of their time doing speed runs on the tar and rallying around on the dirt anyway.

</rant>

I've experienced the same thing with the Sentilon (same as Turnigy) HV 100A ESC in my MT2. A while back I attributed this super slow startup to the fact that I'm running an overgeared/overvolted outrunner in my MT2, but others notice the same thing. It's really weird, the start is super slow, but after it starts the motor it will let the motor spool up very fast, often resulting in a loss of traction.

Let it be noted, however, that comparing my HV-110 and Sentilon (Turnigy), the HV-110 does not exhibit this slow start behavior, at least the way I have it set up.

thanks for all the input guys!! Sounds like the right esc for me =]