Bent those MIP CVDs, how to straighten?

Well the Castle 2200 with MMM on 6S is a bit much for the rear CVDs even with MIP 1600s. Bent em both. I tried to straighten them using a vise and heating, with no luck. any other ideas?

[jhautz]

What vehicle? I tried keeping MIP CVDs running in my Revo but in the end the plastic sliders were more reliable. They are faily cheap to replace when they start to stretch at the joint. just keep your eyes pealed on ebay for a deal and grab them when they are available. I usually keep a set on hand and when i put in a fresh set i go looking for a new set of backups.

IMO you are better off just buying a new set of CVDs

[madmaxx]

contact MIP, they have great service/support! you may be surprised

[Semi Pro]

to make its straight

heat the bone up with an oxy acetylene torch untill it glows, then bend it back. after its straight heat the whole bone intill it glows and then dip it in a bucket of water to re harden it.

Originally Posted by Semi Pro

to make its straight

heat the bone up with an oxy acetylene torch untill it glows, then bend it back. after its straight heat the whole bone intill it glows and then dip it in a bucket of water to re harden it.

if you are going to heat and quench, dont use water it will cool too fast and become more brittle use motor oil, be careful when when you quench in oil you might get a flame coming off of the oil

[bruce750i]

It will never be as strong as it was, but I would lay it flat on a anvil and smack it with a hammer, turning and hitting it on the high spots. The anvil should fit between the ends of the cvds.

What I have been doing for the last day is putting it in a slotted vise for 10-12 hours and then rotate it.. Am I wasting my time? Well I guess it won't hurt. I don't have Acetolene torch so I may try the banging method.

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by azjc

if you are going to heat and quench, dont use water it will cool too fast and become more brittle use motor oil, be careful when when you quench in oil you might get a flame coming off of the oil

thats why i didnt tell him to use oil

it should be just as strong as it was before it bent

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by clink69

What I have been doing for the last day is putting it in a slotted vise for 10-12 hours and then rotate it.. Am I wasting my time? Well I guess it won't hurt. I don't have Acetolene torch so I may try the banging method.

your waisting your time, and the banging method is a waste of time too, you can get a cheep acetolene torch at the hard ware store for less than $50, it wont be as good as a big one but it will work, and in this hobby its a needed tool

[squeeforever]

Water, air, or oil would depend on the type of metal. I'm gonna guess its some kind of low alloy or medium tensile steel, so that would be water.

Oh, and since you don't have a acetylene torch, just use a propane torch. You can get one pretty cheap, but it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new one. A torch is a invaluable tool though. I'd get one regardless.

[George16]

For the amount of money you're going to spend on the propane or acetelyne torch, just throw it away and buy a new one. Or like it was posted above, give htem a call. They might send you a replacement cvd.

I'm using the plastic sliders on my converted revo and I still have to break one.

Well here what I have done so far, totally unrelated to straightening the shafts. Converted to a decent radio with EPA./ Lowered the EPA on throttle channel to about 80-85% so like I'm running a 5S lipo but using a 6S. Changed back to the plastic shafts. Lossened the slipper a little. Its a lot more controlable, lets see how it holds up.

Thanks for all the inputs.