sheared screw removal

[RUSTY XL-5]

I just broke a ball stud screw on my rusty. It just so happened that it sheared off in an aluminum castor block. It is thread locked in there, and I know heat it up to disable the thread lock. But, how do I remove the screw without having to buy a screw removal tool?


Thanks!

[What's_nitro?]

This a 3mm screw? Is there any part of it protruding that you can get a hold of? If you have a dremel, you could try cutting a notch in it and then use a flat SD to back it out after it's heated. Other wise you'll most likely have to drill it out or buy a new castor block because there aren't any extractors that will work on screws smaller than 1/8".

[RUSTY XL-5]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

This a 3mm screw? Is there any part of it protruding that you can get a hold of? If you have a dremel, you could try cutting a notch in it and then use a flat SD to back it out after it's heated. Other wise you'll most likely have to drill it out or buy a new castor block because there aren't any extractors that will work on screws smaller than 1/8".

It is a 3mm screw....and there is a little bit (like 1-1.5mm) sticking out the other end. My only worry is that the dremel wont leave much of a "wall" for the notch since the wheel is about 1.5mm thick. I'll give it a shot if nothing else is mentioned.

I would hate to ruin the castor block. The pair was close to $20 and I've only used them a handful of times.

[What's_nitro?]

There are thinner cutting wheels available. They're cheap, too. THESE are the ones I mean. They are ~1mm thick and ~1" in diameter. just don't spin them too fast because they do self-destruct very easily. Oh, and WEAR GLASSES!!!!!

[brushlessboy16]

vice grip pliers.

[RUSTY XL-5]

I actually have some of them....I'm just worried that the "notch" wont be strong enough. I cant try it now...its dark outside. First light tomorrow I'll give it a shot.


Oh, they do self-destruct very well, I've noticed its mainly when they get too hot.

[RUSTY XL-5]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

vice grip pliers.

I dont think there is enough screw sticking out for that.

[What's_nitro?]

You may need to cut into the aluminum to get a good grip on it. Not enough to hurt it structually. You could say it happened in a crash so it would be like a scar and, therefore, cool.

[RUSTY XL-5]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

You may need to cut into the aluminum to get a good grip on it. Not enough to hurt it structually. You could say it happened in a crash so it would be like a scar and, therefore, cool.

True. I do need to find some different ball stud screws....I shear one a week at least (they are associated). I saw that lunsford sells Ti ones, but they are $8 a pair!

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by RUSTY XL-5

True. I do need to find some different ball stud screws....I shear one a week at least (they are associated). I saw that lunsford sells Ti ones, but they are $8 a pair!

and how much does an alloy caster block cost??

[RUSTY XL-5]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

and how much does an alloy caster block cost??

Well, this is actually the first time I've sheared one in a castor block. Nine times out of ten, I sear one in the front shock tower.

[RUSTY XL-5]

I got it out. I did the notch trick with my trusty dremel. Aside from the nick in the castor block now, it worked like a charm.

I'm not sure why I didn't think of the notch trick before...I've had to do it before also. Thanks what's-nitro for reminding me.

[Arct1k]

if it is fLM jamie will help you out...

[What's_nitro?]

Good to hear Rusty! You're welcome!