CRT.5 doesn't like turning left - RC-Monster Forums

Snipin_Willy · **CRT.5 doesn't like turning left -** 06.16.2009, 11:11 PM

I wasn't too sure why my CRT.5 never liked turning left like it did turning right. It makes a much wider left turn because something in the steering geometry is screwed up. The left steering post is a smaller diameter than the right steering post which is allowing the draglink to move more to one side than the other. Does anyone have a remedy to this problem?

blueb8llz · 06.16.2009, 11:28 PM

what if you turn off power and turn the tires all the way to the left and right with your hands. if it still limited? is it rubbing anywhere...maybe the wheel screw too tight?

Snipin_Willy · 06.16.2009, 11:58 PM

The draglink hitting the servosaver when turning to the left is the limiting factor. I'm not sure if the factory draglink was curved or not, but Mike's draglink from the chassis kit is a strait piece. A bowed draglink may help solve this but I don't know where to find one.

Snipin_Willy · 06.18.2009, 04:50 PM

I managed to partially fix the problem but the ball cups I'm using are now hitting the Diff case. Is there a better option to use other than the Lunsford ends that come with the Ti buckles? Needs the cups and the ball studs.

Arct1k · 06.18.2009, 07:16 PM

Stock drag link is straight - I too the dremel lightly to my diff cases

**steering solutions -** 06.18.2009, 10:23 PM

hi , the first thing to do set your Rx andTx to zero/center trim and subtrim.Next set the servo arm as close to vertical as posible,there will allways be one spline fore or aft of mechanical center so pick one and be happy in your pick.Next adjust the link from the servo saver to the servo arm so there is the same amount of drag link prodruding from either side of the rear upper arm holder#40837 looking straight down on the truck,dont pay any attention to the way the wheels are pointed at this time and make sure your radios are on,Then pop your tierods and camberlinks off and measure them to make sure each pair are the same length. now snap them back in place all in the same adjustment direction .then i set the tow at 0 deg or +1 and camber at 0 or-1 now if its a little out you can adjust the link at the servo too saver or trim it up at the radio.if its still not right start looking for binding wheels ,bad bearings,bent universals ect. ect. Have fun1

Snipin_Willy · 06.18.2009, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug Shelp

hi , the first thing to do set your Rx andTx to zero/center trim and subtrim.Next set the servo arm as close to vertical as posible,there will allways be one spline fore or aft of mechanical center so pick one and be happy in your pick.Next adjust the link from the servo saver to the servo arm so there is the same amount of drag link prodruding from either side of the rear upper arm holder#40837 looking straight down on the truck,dont pay any attention to the way the wheels are pointed at this time and make sure your radios are on,Then pop your tierods and camberlinks off and measure them to make sure each pair are the same length. now snap them back in place all in the same adjustment direction .then i set the tow at 0 deg or +1 and camber at 0 or-1 now if its a little out you can adjust the link at the servo too saver or trim it up at the radio.if its still not right start looking for binding wheels ,bad bearings,bent universals ect. ect. Have fun1

I did all the usual stuff already. Everything is as centered as it can get from the servo arm at 0-trim to the length of the turn buckles. It would have been nice if the bell crank arms were longer or if the drag link was placed further away from the steering post. Poor geometry, but they did have limited space to use. It's better moving the turn buckles out on the bellcrank, but not perfect. Gonna require dremeling the diff case a hair.