CRT .5 extended chassis body

I am waiting for my RC-Monster extended chassis kit to come in, can't wait. I asked Mike what aftermarket bodies fit his chassis with the awesome 1/8th scale shock mod front and back. He said he uses a Jato Crowd Pleaser and that an AE GT body also works well. When I searched I found some people using Rustler bodies also. I like my Illuzion body for my 8T alot and was wondering what everybody else is using for their modded CRT .5s before I buy a body. I really don't want to do too much body hacking on it. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. BTW, this is a great forum and I am glad to be a new member.

[Snipin_Willy]

I bought a Rustler body for my CRT.5 when I got Mike's chassis kit. Wheel base length is just about perfect, I just had to remove my bumper. I cut a rectangular shaped hole in the rear for the wing mount to poke through instead of hacking to rear end to bits. Body structure is still very ridged in the rear and the rounded cuts will keep the body getting stress fractures.

[magman]

I used a nitro Jato body

[Snipin_Willy]

aye those Slingshots and gladiators look nice

[magman]

Both trucks look nice w/this set up...of course I am partial to dying them black!

[stum]

I'd just like to point out w/ those body's and big wheels you're now just a 1/10 buggy w/ a truck body on top ;) I'm assuming you don't race cause I would think you'd be booted from the class.

[Snipin_Willy]

This became my beater after I built my RC8T

im useing a proline crowd pleaser on my rcm ,all you have to do is trim it up normaly as if you were gona instal it on a stock .5. then you install an 1/8 truggyrear body mount on the front of the rear shock tower cut the mount holes in the front of the body a bit more forward.i also made a reinforcment for the rear mount out of lexan card stock and shoe goode it in and for the sides i made a1/2 in. aluminum angle iron bracket so i could atatch the body on the sides with velcro witch make this body rock solid.OFNA has asked proline to make up a run of the .5 crowd pleaser and there avvailable now and to me with the tires and wheels ive put together and the RCM conversion this thing looks like an 1/8 truggy

[nougat]

I had success with an Associated RC10T4 body. All I had to do was cut a notch for for the wing stay. It's a little short in the back, but I like the look. This is my first paint job, so I kept it real simple.

Loving my brushless crt.5! I've learned a lot from lurking on this forum and this is my setup:

• RC-Monster extended chassis and conversion kit
• Mamba Max ESC
• Traxxas VXL Velineon Motor 15T pinion on 2S for track and 3S for bashing (tried Medusa 36-50-4800kv... great motor, but I didn't think it was worth the extra $$$)
• Revo Hard Anodized GTR front shocks with 1.4 Jato pistons and 1.6 Jato blue springs 30wt shock oil (OFNA DM-1s were big improvement over stock, but not enough travel)
• OFNA big bore front buggy shocks in the rear with 50wt oil and soft springs
• Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingpins, including 4x23mm upper arm turnbuckle with beefier rod ends (if only I could get a beefier upper arm).
• OFNA CNC alloy knuckles, c-hubs and rear uprights
• 2.2 truck Gladiators (pictures), Bowties and Holeshots on HPI Scorch wheels
• 1/10 scale truggy wing

it looks great man i run the .5 crowd pleaser because i realy like the look and i prefer the smaller body profile snuggeled lower and in behind the bumper and shock tower and its held up well for about two and a half months .i race my RCM .5 sometimes with slash open or 1/10 4wd buggys,SC10s ,sc8s and even 1/8 buggys it just depends on the turn out and type of entrys so durability is a must for me .i had a problum under cornering with the side wall folding under and the rim digging in and rolling so my solution was ofna 1/12 truggy dishes and trinnity ultra hard truck foams w/1/2" cut from the width and just about any track apropriate truck tire and viola, almost never traction rolls and for me it handles great.as far as shocks are concerned im still working on that .ive tried the dm1/13mmfronts combo but as far as ive worked out the spring rates available are alittle stiff and the front droop was ok but a bit short so i took a hard look at the stockers and found the OEM pistons were undersized.after looking into it i found the assosiated pistons fit perfectly after thining them and now i run them exclucivly.i also am running all the CNC stuff and wile its heavy and pricey i havent spent money replacing that stuff intwo years. have fun !

hay nouget: heres an option on upper arms .i also was braking these regularly so heres the solution 1) remove the front diff assembly 2)remove the camber linkand set it aside 3)get a lunsford titanium turn buckle of 45mm aprox. 4)remove the ball end from the stock upper arm and put together a second set and thread them on to the lunsford link 5)remove the hing pin from the upper arm and add a length of silicone fuel line long enough to cover all but the last 5mm of the pin. 6)install the lunsford link in the stock assemblies position and installthe front diff back in the car. 7)adjust the camber as you see fit. 8)and worry about somthing else. mine has been on this set up for a year and a half with no breakage

[nougat]

Originally Posted by Doug Shelp

hay nouget: heres an option on upper arms .i also was braking these regularly so heres the solution 1) remove the front diff assembly 2)remove the camber linkand set it aside 3)get a lunsford titanium turn buckle of 45mm aprox. 4)remove the ball end from the stock upper arm and put together a second set and thread them on to the lunsford link 5)remove the hing pin from the upper arm and add a length of silicone fuel line long enough to cover all but the last 5mm of the pin. 6)install the lunsford link in the stock assemblies position and installthe front diff back in the car. 7)adjust the camber as you see fit. 8)and worry about somthing else. mine has been on this set up for a year and a half with no breakage

I was thinking about doing something like this, but I wasn't sure it would be any stronger. Good to know it is. Thanks for the tip.

[magman]

Originally Posted by nougat

I had success with an Associated RC10T4 body. All I had to do was cut a notch for for the wing stay. It's a little short in the back, but I like the look. This is my first paint job, so I kept it real simple.

Loving my brushless crt.5! I've learned a lot from lurking on this forum and this is my setup:

• RC-Monster extended chassis and conversion kit
• Mamba Max ESC
• Traxxas VXL Velineon Motor 15T pinion on 2S for track and 3S for bashing (tried Medusa 36-50-4800kv... great motor, but I didn't think it was worth the extra $$$)
• Revo Hard Anodized GTR front shocks with 1.4 Jato pistons and 1.6 Jato blue springs 30wt shock oil (OFNA DM-1s were big improvement over stock, but not enough travel)
• OFNA big bore front buggy shocks in the rear with 50wt oil and soft springs
• Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingpins, including 4x23mm upper arm turnbuckle with beefier rod ends (if only I could get a beefier upper arm).
• OFNA CNC alloy knuckles, c-hubs and rear uprights
• 2.2 truck Gladiators (pictures), Bowties and Holeshots on HPI Scorch wheels
• 1/10 scale truggy wing

Looks very nice!

[magman]

Originally Posted by stum

I'd just like to point out w/ those body's and big wheels you're now just a 1/10 buggy w/ a truck body on top ;) I'm assuming you don't race cause I would think you'd be booted from the class.

You are correct...in fact, my truck has a home made chassis that is over 1" longer than Mike's chassis kit