Savage 21 BL Conversion - From The Beginning...Advice Appreciated =)

Hi all, been a long time since a posted substantially in here! =)

After recently scoring a free savage 21 (from what i can tell?) I've made an order with mike for some parts to start on the conversion... I wanna build this to be a tough as nails, ballsy, bash capable machine =)

To make life simple (and not so harsh on my wallet at the same time!), i wanna run the same electrics i run in my LST...
Motor - Lehner 2230 11t
ESC - MGM-Compro 160-24 (i have an 80-18 car/boat, but fear it wouldn't be enough? - thoughts?)
Batts - 18x GP3700 packs (3x 6-cell packs in series)
I wanna keep the mech brakes, and utilise the reverse module too...

I'm in need of advice with regards to gearing and drivetrain parts, as this is gonna be my first savage! =) From what i can tell, there are many options to take, and most things i've read, people don't really say why they're doing what they do...

With the spider gears - you can have like, 4/6 and 8 gears right? what's the difference in strength between em all?

Also wondering about the 3-speed? Found one NIB and assembled for 80 bux on ebay... Does it require a whole new case, or is it still gonna be compatible with what i have?

Now... to the parts i have on the way...
From Mike...
*x1 FLM Tranny Forward Brushless Conversion
*x2 FLM Hybrid Bulkhead
*x2 FLM CNC Shock Towers
*x2 FLM LST Shock Conversion
*x1 FLM Steering Drag Link
*x1 MGM usbCom+

From elsewhere...
*x1 Integy MSR6 LST Silver Piggyback Shocks
*x1 RD Logics 23mm Hex Hub Extender w22mm Nut

I've ordered the "FLM Hybrid Bulkhead" but do you guys know if this part replaces the "FLM CNC Machined Savage Diff Cup"? I'm assuming so...

I was also looking at the FLM extended arm conversion, but wouldn't mind the uppers to be adjustable? Anyone know if the conversion includes adjustable uppers, or if it's possible to get them? I see the ones on rc-monster, but are they the same as stock, or are they extended?

Thanks for your help guys, i really need it... i'm not ashamed to admit it -lol- I tried on my own first and was just gonna post it up finished out of the blue, but figured i'd be best doing it once -lol-

Cheers =)

-daniel

oops - i forgot, i have pics of the sav as it is =)

[bl-is-future]

awe man, everything looks good except when i seen the word INTEGY. I have a thread somewhere when i built a FLM, INTEGY savage. Needless to say there is not a single INTEGY part on it now. Don't waste your money, them shocks shafts will bend like butter. I was warned too and didn't listen now i wish i would have.

Now for your questions -
uppers are adjustable and makes the truck very very very stable becasue the kit is wide. The drive shafts are also very tuff and have a great warranty. (it breaks you get a new one) The bulk heads do NOT replace your diff cup, you will still need the alloy ones (i rec. the HPI ones, have work fine for me) Gearing run the stock spur with a rc-monster mod1 16 tooth pinion. And as far as the 3 speed it depends on how you want to go. I personally locked mine in second so i could use motor brakes and reduce stress on the bec and no extra servo weight (not that it weighed a lot just a simpler setup, less to go wrong) I suggest you just lock yours as well. will actually having it shift you may run the risk of the tranny blowing apart from all the force of BL. Besides with that gearing 2nd is plenty fast enough, seriously it is quick, too quick for a track.
Hope that helped and good luck.

Hey man, thanks for your help, much appreciated!

spewbags bout the piggybacks... i only bought em cause i've always loved the look of em, but guess i was dumb enough to not do the research -lol- Do you guys know if the Losi TiNi Shock Shafts will fit the Integy shocks?? Maybe i could get away with em then? =)

It looks like you've swayed me to lock it up in 2nd tho =) Speed is not a main concern - as long as i'm, as you put it, 'too quick for a track' - then that's exactly what i'm after =D

How many spider gears for my diffs should i be looking at? I've been thinking of going for 6, but does the count of these affect driving at all, or just add strength with the more gears in there you have? (eg - 4spider= strong - 6spider= strongER - 8spider= strongEST???) Is HPI the only company to make these spider gears?

Sorry for all the q's hey guys, but the savage is brand spankin for me -lol-

[bl-is-future]

IIRC the stock HPI shafts will fit in the MRs6 but that is the only one. I know it fits one integy shock but not sure what one exactly. Just go with the stock diff gears and get the alloy cups to put em in and you should be fine. I have yet to blow a diff and i am very hard on my stuff. Just make sure you shim them correctly. I am going to a meet this weekend and will hopefully get some good footage of the truck in action.

Originally Posted by bl-is-future

IIRC the stock HPI shafts will fit in the MRs6 but that is the only one.

I have the Integy LST Piggybacks coming? You think the Losi Upgraded TiNi shafts would fit?

ooo nice to hear =) I had always assumed the diffs needed heaps of bulking up, as the local guys i used to know would always be talking bout it -lol-

now - this shimming business... When you say shim the diffs - is this just shimming the crown gear from the center driveshaft, or is there a bit more to it than that?? I havent really looked this one up yet, but have heard plenty bout it through searching other things...

btw... been looking at two of these instead of just getting the diff cases? i assume this would cover the diff case problem? =)
"ALLOY GEAR/CASE DIFF SET 43T (ASSEMBLED)"

http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=86826

thanks again for all your help mate =)

[bl-is-future]

Not sure if the losi TiNi will fit or not. Get the diff you pictured and the bulk heads by flm and you will be fine. Now the shimming is just pressing the crown gear tightly to the center diff gear. As long as there is no slop you should be fine and the diffs will last a good amount of time. The most important thing is shimming. Most people just throw the diffs in and call it good and with nitro it is ok but still not good. With BL it will shred the gears if not shimmed correctly.

Maybe i'll try the losi shafts or do a bit of a search another time... (have the girlfriend here this weekend... she's a flight attendant =D)

Thanks for the advice on the shimming mate - will make sure to organise that - do you have a link to a place that sells the shim kit i need, and an SS hex head screw kit? =)

for now tho - i picked up the last diff one of the LHS had in stock - was a bonus, as i won a drift comp a short while back, and scored a 50 dollar gift voucher, so it really only costed me $22! =)

[Sammus]

I think the whole alloy diff case thing is to prevent the outer diff case flexing when the diff loads up - usually resulting a breaking a tooth or two off the diff pinion. So not alloy diff cup, but the out case (or the whole bulkhead for the newwer savage style)

i have been thinking that since i was looking at the part in my hands on the way home this arvo -lmao- is all good - least it's something that i'll never need to worry about -lol-

OK... an update =)

Got most of the front end completed, with a few adjustments and things to change round etc, but need some more help, as it seems i have a fair few left over pieces... i seen another thread with the same problem - only he had way less left over bits than i did -lol-

Anyways - pics explain it all i think... with the first one - i need help with the RED/BLUE & BLACK text/boxes please - OH and the last picture has me STUMPED!!

thanks guys!

[Sammus]

I'm pretty sure your battery stop is a rear motor support. In my revo mount I got two that looked like that. One for regular 36mm can, and another for (what I assume is) 40mm neu can.

-lmao- OF COURSE!!! mannn - i been smokin wayyy too much lately -lol- thanks man =) i just needed your post to kick my brain into 1st gear -lol-

It's a spare mount - it replaces the current one for use with larger motors... why didn't i think of that?? -lol- i never noticed the difference in curve on it, and just assumed it had to go somewhere else... i thought rear motor mount support - but then there's nowhere for it to fit -lol-

pics tell the story =) Thanks Sammus!!

Just some side by side shots with the old chassis...